25m, 2 pitches.
This fun crack and corner can provide a safer alternative to P1 of Flying Sideways, or a very worthy route in its own right.
P1. 15m 5a.
Locate the shallow hand and finger crack weakness 5m right of Flying Sideways. Climb the crack carefully straight up, and mantle left onto a good ledge at 6m. Rest, then continue up the clean corner and finger crack to belay on a large ledge.
P2. 4c 10m Climb off easily trending rightwards and up to finish.
A good alternative is to walk left across the belay ledge to finish up the roof crack second pitch of Flying Sideways E1 5b.
P1. 15m 5a.
Locate the shallow hand and finger crack weakness 5m right of Flying Sideways. Climb the crack carefully straight up, and mantle left onto a good ledge at 6m. Rest, then continue up the clean corner and finger crack to belay on a large ledge.
P2. 4c 10m Climb off easily trending rightwards and up to finish.
A good alternative is to walk left across the belay ledge to finish up the roof crack second pitch of Flying Sideways E1 5b.
Dan Morrell, Matt George 18/Sep/2018.
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Route of Interest
Archangel
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Black Head Area)