26m, 2 pitches.
A quality route taking a commiting line up the centre of the buttress beside Bastille.
Micro nuts and a number 5 black diamond or equivalent cam useful.
P1 5a 14m Start at the right of a sloping ledge in the middle of the buttress. Mantle onto the ledge and move left for 4m. Make bold but reasonable moves straight up with poor micro nut protection to get established onto the good ledge. Arrange more protection before making yet more delicate bold moves up the slab to belay on a large ledge above.
P2 5b 12m Well protected, and rather commiting. Climb stylishly from the belay up onto a rightwards rising ramp then move easily right for 5 metres before heading straight up to the obvious wide crack weakness in the centre of the impressive roof. Prepare for yet more exciting climbing on surprisingly good holds as you manoevre round the lip and climb up with satisfaction to good belays above.
Micro nuts and a number 5 black diamond or equivalent cam useful.
P1 5a 14m Start at the right of a sloping ledge in the middle of the buttress. Mantle onto the ledge and move left for 4m. Make bold but reasonable moves straight up with poor micro nut protection to get established onto the good ledge. Arrange more protection before making yet more delicate bold moves up the slab to belay on a large ledge above.
P2 5b 12m Well protected, and rather commiting. Climb stylishly from the belay up onto a rightwards rising ramp then move easily right for 5 metres before heading straight up to the obvious wide crack weakness in the centre of the impressive roof. Prepare for yet more exciting climbing on surprisingly good holds as you manoevre round the lip and climb up with satisfaction to good belays above.
Dan Morrell, Matt George 19/Sep/2018.
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Route of Interest
Midgey, Midge, the Midge
Grade: E1 5b ***
(Geevor)