UKC

Rockfax Description
5.11 in off-width money - very big cams are essential. Abseil onto the ledge and squirm up the unrelenting crack. Collapse onto the halfway ledge to recompose yourself. The climbing above is only 5.9, but still awkward. Finish up ledges. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Offwidth left of The Mancer

Ticklists

Wide Cracks, Thrutch and Clutch, WideBoyz Crack School, UK road to wide crack mastery, Crackageddon, Craciau Llydan Gogledd Cymru, Proper Cracks UK, Gwynedd Grack

Feedback

User Date Notes
myrddinmuse 11 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Logistics for future ascentionists: The abseil tree in the Rockfax book is totally wrong, this one will maroon you at the Mancer. There is a more gnarled and larger tree to the right (facing the water). This one is directly over the top out. The beech tree to the left is also an appropriate abseil tree, preserving the onsight by going just out to the right and out of sight of the crack to land on the ledge. On the ledge there is a very convenient tree as an anchor for the belayer. If you're splitting it into two, the "belay" on the ledge takes one valley giant 9, or a merlin, or a pretty tipped out #6. Bon voyage, it's a real treat!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Logistics for future ascentionists: The abseil tree in the Rockfax book is totally wrong, this one will maroon you at the Mancer. There is a more gnarled and larger tree to the right (facing the water). This one is directly over the top out. The beech tree to the left is also an appropriate abseil tree, preserving the onsight by going just out to the right and out of sight of the crack to land on the ledge. On the ledge there is a very convenient tree as an anchor for the belayer. If you're splitting it into two, the "belay" on the ledge takes one valley giant 9, or a merlin, or a pretty tipped out #6. Bon voyage, it's a real treat!

Logged Ascents

7 users have logged this
13 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 2
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 2
Votes cast 3
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Onsighted
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest

Capital Punishment

Grade: E4 5c ***
(Idwal Slabs (aka Cwm Idwal))
Loading Notifications...