Rockfax Description
5.11 in off-width money - very big cams are essential. Abseil onto the ledge and squirm up the unrelenting crack. Collapse onto the halfway ledge to recompose yourself. The climbing above is only 5.9, but still awkward. Finish up ledges. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Offwidth left of The Mancer
Ticklists
Wide Cracks , Thrutch and Clutch , WideBoyz Crack School , UK road to wide crack mastery , Crackageddon , Craciau Llydan Gogledd Cymru , Proper Cracks UK , Gwynedd Grack , Journey Through Welsh Crack Climbing , Tom's crack funtimes
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| padow | 26 Jun |
Show βeta
βeta: Cleaned on abseil today, cleared a lot of bramble and spikyness from the ab line and brushed the edges of some ledges . The climbing line is clean until the top out. Looks more probable from the top now, less of a descent into a spiky melange. Back on a dry day to climb | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Cleaned on abseil today, cleared a lot of bramble and spikyness from the ab line and brushed the edges of some ledges . The climbing line is clean until the top out. Looks more probable from the top now, less of a descent into a spiky melange. Back on a dry day to climb |
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| myrddinmuse | 11 Aug, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Logistics for future ascentionists: The abseil tree in the Rockfax book is totally wrong, this one will maroon you at the Mancer. There is a more gnarled and larger tree to the right (facing the water). This one is directly over the top out. The beech tree to the left is also an appropriate abseil tree, preserving the onsight by going just out to the right and out of sight of the crack to land on the ledge. On the ledge there is a very convenient tree as an anchor for the belayer. If you're splitting it into two, the "belay" on the ledge takes one valley giant 9, or a merlin, or a pretty tipped out #6. Bon voyage, it's a real treat! | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Logistics for future ascentionists: The abseil tree in the Rockfax book is totally wrong, this one will maroon you at the Mancer. There is a more gnarled and larger tree to the right (facing the water). This one is directly over the top out. The beech tree to the left is also an appropriate abseil tree, preserving the onsight by going just out to the right and out of sight of the crack to land on the ledge. On the ledge there is a very convenient tree as an anchor for the belayer. If you're splitting it into two, the "belay" on the ledge takes one valley giant 9, or a merlin, or a pretty tipped out #6. Bon voyage, it's a real treat! |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Gideon Quarries
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Sacred Idol
Grade: E4 6a ***
(Clogwyn Gafr (aka Craig Fach))