UKC

Restricted Access

There have been serious problems here in the past but access appears less problematic providing climbers keep a low profile. The quarries are owned by Gwynedd Council who make it clear that there is no offical access due to public safety reasons - there are high fences and signs prohibiting access, but there have not been any reports of practical access problems for many years.

In early 2017 planning permisson was granted for a new hydro-electric power station on the site. When works starts on this (unkknow time-scale) its likley that access to some of the quarries will be permenently lost, especially to Mancer and Film Set Quarries as these will become flooded to produce a holding reservoir.  

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

- Due to nesting Peregrines and Choughs (both species have legal protection under the Wildlife & Countryside Act),  some climbing in the Gideon Quarry (all routes on Gideon Terrace and Cracking up areas) is restricted from March 1st until the end of June.

 

Rockfax Description
5.11 in off-width money - very big cams are essential. Abseil onto the ledge and squirm up the unrelenting crack. Collapse onto the halfway ledge to recompose yourself. The climbing above is only 5.9, but still awkward. Finish up ledges. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Offwidth left of The Mancer

Ticklists

Wide Cracks , Thrutch and Clutch , WideBoyz Crack School , UK road to wide crack mastery , Crackageddon , Craciau Llydan Gogledd Cymru , Proper Cracks UK , Gwynedd Grack , Journey Through Welsh Crack Climbing , Tom's crack funtimes

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User Date Notes
myrddinmuse 11 Aug, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Logistics for future ascentionists: The abseil tree in the Rockfax book is totally wrong, this one will maroon you at the Mancer. There is a more gnarled and larger tree to the right (facing the water). This one is directly over the top out. The beech tree to the left is also an appropriate abseil tree, preserving the onsight by going just out to the right and out of sight of the crack to land on the ledge. On the ledge there is a very convenient tree as an anchor for the belayer. If you're splitting it into two, the "belay" on the ledge takes one valley giant 9, or a merlin, or a pretty tipped out #6. Bon voyage, it's a real treat!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Logistics for future ascentionists: The abseil tree in the Rockfax book is totally wrong, this one will maroon you at the Mancer. There is a more gnarled and larger tree to the right (facing the water). This one is directly over the top out. The beech tree to the left is also an appropriate abseil tree, preserving the onsight by going just out to the right and out of sight of the crack to land on the ledge. On the ledge there is a very convenient tree as an anchor for the belayer. If you're splitting it into two, the "belay" on the ledge takes one valley giant 9, or a merlin, or a pretty tipped out #6. Bon voyage, it's a real treat!

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Gideon Quarries

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Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 2
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 2
Votes cast 3
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Onsighted
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Skull

Grade: E4 6a ***
(Cyrn Las (Gyrn Las))

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