One of the finest E4s in North Wales, but its remote location means not many people know this. The first pitch is slabby and serious, the second well protected and exposed. Start by abseiling in - a 60m rope only just reaches the ground.1) 5c, 20m. Start at some blocks at the back of a corner-groove. Pull up left past a bolt to reach a cam placement. Move leftwards to another bolt and make a committing move left to gain the arete. Head up to the bolt belay.2) 6a, 20m. Make a hard pull right through the bulge. An awkward move left after the second bolt reaches the third. Head up past a side-pull and a few more bolts to an exposed groove. Belay just above this on a mossy slab.3) 4b, 10m. Try not to slip as you edge across to your abseil rope, which will aid progress up the mossy exit. © Rockfax
Llanberis Slate *** Routes
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Grade: E4 6a ***
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