Restricted Access
There have been serious problems here in the past but access appears less problematic providing climbers keep a low profile. The quarries are owned by Gwynedd Council who make it clear that there is no offical access due to public safety reasons - there are high fences and signs prohibiting access, but there have not been any reports of practical access problems for many years.
In early 2017 planning permisson was granted for a new hydro-electric power station on the site. When works starts on this (unkknow time-scale) its likley that access to some of the quarries will be permenently lost, especially to Mancer and Film Set Quarries as these will become flooded to produce a holding reservoir.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
- Due to nesting Peregrines and Choughs (both species have legal protection under the Wildlife & Countryside Act), some climbing in the Gideon Quarry (all routes on Gideon Terrace and Cracking up areas) is restricted from March 1st until the end of June.
Rockfax Description
The corner to the right is exciting if nothing else. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Laybacking up the corner to a very loose tombstone and flakes. Really not worth repeating.
Extremely loose material in the top half of this route with several loose flakes ready to go. After the accident on the 01/12/13 I would suggest an XS grade for this route due to it's dire nature. Still good climbing in the lower half mind.
Updated here to XS,5b. Initially given E2.
Mark Reeves/David Rothwell 08/Aug/1999.
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Gideon Quarries
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The Great Crack Of Porth Oer
Grade: XS 5b ***
(Porth Iago)