Rockfax Description
The line on the far left of this section of wall close to vegetation. Make a hard boulder problem move to reach the 'woodpecker's 'ole', a one finger pocket. Gain a standing position and then by use of a larger 3 finger pocket reach the ledge above. The upper wall is easier but still maintains interest to the top. The lower section can be avoided on the left by climbing the groove on the left (uses first two bolts on Woodpecker Wall). Starting up Wicked Grin's first two bolts can also be used to avoid the start. Both variations are 6a+. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The furthest line left, Just left of Wicked Grin. The bouldery crux is avoidable but try to stay true to the line of bolts and make the first crux move to reach the 'woodpecker's 'ole', a one finger pocket. Gain a standing position and then by use of the larger 3 finger pocket attempt to reach the ledge above. The upper wal is is easier but still maintains interest to the top.
Glyn Edwards, Jed Campion, Norman Wilkinson Apr/2021.
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Grade: 6b+ ***
(Stony Bank (Stoney Bank))