UKC

195m, 5 pitches. A fine and generally well-protected route on good rock taking a line of hanging ramps and grooves between Gillercombe Gully and Gillercombe Buttress. Start as for Gillercombe Buttress.

1 30m (4b). Climb up slabby rock and move round left to below a square recess (as for Gillercombe Buttress), then follow a deceptively easy-looking rampline leftwards with interest to a stance almost in the gully at the point where the rampline steepens into a wall.

2 45m (4c). Gain a short corner crack, climb it to a huge flake, and go up this to its top, before pulling out right to follow a crack to a slabby recess. Climb out of the recess and up leftwards across slabs, and then up a clean nose to more slabs. Go up these to a good ledge below the steep corner crack that is pitch 4 of Gillercombe Buttress.

3 40m (4c). Traverse horizontally leftwards across a juniper ledge and around the arête on the left, then climb up steeply just left of the arête. When it eases step right and follow a crack to easier ground. Climb up leftwards towards a platform below a slim groove, some 10 metres down and left of the stance at the top of pitch 5 of Gillercombe Buttress. Belay on a platform just down and right of this top platform.

4 30m (4c). Climb a clean rib from the top platform to just below the slim groove (good side runner above a juniper bush on the right). Traverse left under the groove and pull out steeply onto its left rib. Climb up and rightwards to regain the groove, and follow it to a narrow ledge and block belay (back up runners on the left).

5 50m (4a). Step off the block and climb up slightly leftwards to a clean buttress. Go straight up this, and then another similar buttress above on the right. Continue up in the same line to a short groove and a final belay just below the top. A bold pitch.



Stephen Reid, Wil Hurford 30/May/2005.

Feedback

User Date Notes
chris smith 25 Apr Show βeta
βeta: Pitch 2 has a very large suspect hollow flake on it, after seeing signs of recent rockfall we continued up the left facing ramp (chossy but with decent gear) the stepped across the gully to the left wall climbed the arête for a short distance then climbed up some easier ground to rejoin the 2nd pitch. Pitch 4 is worth 2 stars
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Pitch 2 has a very large suspect hollow flake on it, after seeing signs of recent rockfall we continued up the left facing ramp (chossy but with decent gear) the stepped across the gully to the left wall climbed the arête for a short distance then climbed up some easier ground to rejoin the 2nd pitch. Pitch 4 is worth 2 stars

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Route of Interest

Gomorrah Ridge Variation

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Pillar)
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