Restricted Access
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
The restriction is unsigned and applies to all routes on Right Wall (Peregrine Way to Prudence). The remaining routes including the popular scramble and descent are unrestricted.
Rockfax Description
A fine buttress climb that wends it way up the centre of the crag.
The climbing is interesting although there are easy passages between the harder sections. Start just right of the toe of the buttress, 5m right of the large gully.
1) 30m. Climb the wall and move left to a square recess. From the top of the recess, head right up a ramp to a small spike and transfer to the ramp above it. Now move rightwards to the end of the ramp and a small stance and belay.
2) 40m. Make some cramped traverse moves left to reach easy ground after 7m. Follow easy-angled ground up ledges and a wide corner to below a vertical wall. Traverse left on ledges to a good stance under a steep corner.
3) 16m. Climb the steep corner and move right to a good stance at its top.
4) 30m. On the right is a short, steep, open corner. Climb this boldly to a ledge above it. Now take a long easy corner to a ledge and belay at a flake that leans against the wall.
5) 4a, 45m. A long pitch. From the top of the flake, step up left and climb a difficult groove that eventually gains easier ground.
Climb up to a narrow corner and take this to its end and a stance and belay.
6) 20m. Scramble up easy ground to the top of the crag. © Rockfax
Ticklists
Classic Rock , Kendal Wall's Best 100 climbs in Britain , Lakeland's Best Multi-pitch Routes up to HVS , The Original 'Classic Rock' List , One day multipitch , The Long Routes , Borrowdale FRCC Guide 'Top Fives' , Nuts of Legends , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Climbs The Lake District , Lake District Classic Rock Challenge , Mountain Rock , ROCKFAX Lake District: Top 50 , Lakes Classic and Hard Rock Selection , A Lakeland Apprenticeship , Snowdonia and The Lakes Classic Rock Summer Challenge , Lakes 2022 , Turbo-Punter's Tradification , Lake District Multipitch Climbing , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| C Witter | 30 May |
Show βeta
βeta: Confident teams are better to skip cramped p.1 belay and take a belay at the ledge above the exposed leftward traverse. It's just more comfortable. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Confident teams are better to skip cramped p.1 belay and take a belay at the ledge above the exposed leftward traverse. It's just more comfortable. |
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| Iain Weymouth | 22 May |
Show βeta
βeta: Another approach from Honister. Follow the path on LHS of fence to the top and the perpendicular fence left to its end and top of crag. Gear up here with wonderful views. Follow the descent path in the wide gully to the bottom | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Another approach from Honister. Follow the path on LHS of fence to the top and the perpendicular fence left to its end and top of crag. Gear up here with wonderful views. Follow the descent path in the wide gully to the bottom |
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| THE.WALRUS | 2 Sep, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Great route. Felt easy for the grade, with the exception of the crux move on pitch 5 (stepping off the flake and entering the slippery / polished groove) a couple of moves which felt like high 4a. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Great route. Felt easy for the grade, with the exception of the crux move on pitch 5 (stepping off the flake and entering the slippery / polished groove) a couple of moves which felt like high 4a. |
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| EmmaB36 | 16 Oct, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: A few tricky moments, but Otherwise good, simple but fun climbing. Loose flake on pitch 5 right where it\'s tempting to use it! | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: A few tricky moments, but Otherwise good, simple but fun climbing. Loose flake on pitch 5 right where it's tempting to use it! |
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| Ab Wilson | 8 Jul, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Walk in from Honister: Take the obvious path straight up the hilll by the fence sign posted Grey Knots. When you pass some rock outcrops near the top of the steep section head left and pick up a faint path contouring round until you can see the crag. The route starts just beyond the lowest continuous rock you can see from this point. Continue contouring round to reach it. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Walk in from Honister: Take the obvious path straight up the hilll by the fence sign posted Grey Knots. When you pass some rock outcrops near the top of the steep section head left and pick up a faint path contouring round until you can see the crag. The route starts just beyond the lowest continuous rock you can see from this point. Continue contouring round to reach it. |
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| Johnhi | 27 Jun, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Bold section on P4 can be protected by a small wire in a horizontal crack around the arete to the right. Much better than first appearance. | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Bold section on P4 can be protected by a small wire in a horizontal crack around the arete to the right. Much better than first appearance. |
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| 1-2-3-40 | 22 Sep, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Climbed together with 30 m of rope between us, great fun. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Climbed together with 30 m of rope between us, great fun. |
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| Ian Stirrups | 28 Jul, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Jess lead all but a bit of the initial slab & final scramble | ||
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Show beta
βeta: Jess lead all but a bit of the initial slab & final scramble |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Gillercombe
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Suaviter
Grade: S 3c ***
(Grey Crag (Buttermere))