UKC

20m. Between Pretty Picture Book and Purple Sue on the wall left of the cave. The start is up ledges to an historic and probably unsafe peg. First public warning. Climbing more steeply above on mud filled edges/shelves. Little or no gear. The vague possibility of two pieces of ‘gear’ very small wires and cams in loose mud filled blocks/shelves momentarily may exist with a dirty runout to the top rockover onto vertical choss/mud going direct. A poor stake or even steak belay up the mud bank ends this. Unless you have time to excavate. You’re now faced with clambering direct up the dangerous mud bank or traversing left to an ‘easier’ escape/bolts. With no gear below you. Full deck out potential. Maybe you clipped some bolts on adjacent nearby routes, but it’s still gonna be very unpleasant. Whilst I’ve done this route I cannot recommend it. no previous first ascensionist have piped up to author it’s validity as a route and it’s not been bolted so did this to document it before it declines/demises/decays to permanent obscurity rather than seeing any encouragement to future ascents. Warning red alert !!

U.N.Known pre crag development. PT 09/May/2024.

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