One of Gimmer Crag's most notorious climbs that requires an ascent of 'Amen Corner'. For many years this feature has been given the traditional grade of Severe, but it has been given the more realistic VS grade here.
1) 17m. Pitch 1 of 'A' Route.
2) 10m. Make a couple of awkward moves up the curving crack to a ledge (as for 'A' Route). Now traverse right to a ledge below an overhanging corner and belay.
3) 5a, 5m. Amen Corner. The fierce corner-crack is well protected. Belay on the large ledge above it.
4) 7m. Follow the slabs leftwards to ledges and a belay below a steeper open corner.
5) 12m. Climb the sustained corner for 9m. Traverse right across the wall at a horizontal crack to a good ledge and belay just around the arete - The Crow's Nest.
6) 16m. Step right and climb the easy-angled wall to the top. © Rockfax
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