Rockfax Description
One of Gimmer Crag's most notorious climbs that requires an ascent of 'Amen Corner'. For many years this feature has been given the traditional grade of Severe, but it has been given the more realistic VS grade here.
1) 17m. Pitch 1 of 'A' Route.
2) 10m. Make a couple of awkward moves up the curving crack to a ledge (as for 'A' Route). Now traverse right to a ledge below an overhanging corner and belay.
3) 5a, 5m. Amen Corner. The fierce corner-crack is well protected. Belay on the large ledge above it.
4) 7m. Follow the slabs leftwards to ledges and a belay below a steeper open corner.
5) 12m. Climb the sustained corner for 9m. Traverse right across the wall at a horizontal crack to a good ledge and belay just around the arete - The Crow's Nest.
6) 16m. Step right and climb the easy-angled wall to the top. © Rockfax
Ticklists
Connoisseur's Classic Rock , Lakeland's Best Multi-pitch Routes up to HVS , M&T Ticklist , Langdale 3* Severes , UK Holiday Plans , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Climbs The Lake District , Bridging Corners, Grooves, Diedres in the UK , Mountain Rock , Turbo-Punter's Tradification
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| David Wynne | 9 Jan |
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βeta: This is not 5a. Amen Corner is 4c at best and solidly protectable with gear well above the critical move. The rest of the route is 4a This needs an urgent revision! | ||
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βeta: This is not 5a. Amen Corner is 4c at best and solidly protectable with gear well above the critical move. The rest of the route is 4a This needs an urgent revision! |
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| allesklar59 | 31 Aug, 2021 |
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βeta: Not VS and not 5a. S 4c is about right maybe HS | βeta? | |
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βeta: Not VS and not 5a. S 4c is about right maybe HS |
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| jh1990 | 20 Jun, 2021 |
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βeta: Most guidebooks have this as S 4c which is reasonable. The route is NOT VS 5a. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Most guidebooks have this as S 4c which is reasonable. The route is NOT VS 5a. |
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| LakesWinter | 1 Nov, 2020 |
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βeta: No way VS 5a. This sort of upgrade confuses the grading system. Severe covers the overall grade as Amen corner can easily be avoided and hence is low commitment. The moves are around 4b in terms of tech grade. Otherwise we are saying this route is only 1 adjective grade easier than Kipling Groove, Golden Slipper and Mithrandir, to pick some Langdale examples. This is crazy. These routes are more than 1 notch harder than B route. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: No way VS 5a. This sort of upgrade confuses the grading system. Severe covers the overall grade as Amen corner can easily be avoided and hence is low commitment. The moves are around 4b in terms of tech grade. Otherwise we are saying this route is only 1 adjective grade easier than Kipling Groove, Golden Slipper and Mithrandir, to pick some Langdale examples. This is crazy. These routes are more than 1 notch harder than B route. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Gimmer Crag
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Moss Ledge Direct and Jones' Arete
Grade: VS 4c ***
(Scafell Crag)