UKC

Rockfax Description
One of Gimmer Crag's most notorious climbs that requires an ascent of 'Amen Corner'. For many years this feature has been given the traditional grade of Severe, but it has been given the more realistic VS grade here.
1) 17m. Pitch 1 of 'A' Route.
2) 10m. Make a couple of awkward moves up the curving crack to a ledge (as for 'A' Route). Now traverse right to a ledge below an overhanging corner and belay.
3) 5a, 5m. Amen Corner. The fierce corner-crack is well protected. Belay on the large ledge above it.
4) 7m. Follow the slabs leftwards to ledges and a belay below a steeper open corner.
5) 12m. Climb the sustained corner for 9m. Traverse right across the wall at a horizontal crack to a good ledge and belay just around the arete - The Crow's Nest.
6) 16m. Step right and climb the easy-angled wall to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Connoisseur's Classic Rock, Lakeland's Best Multi-pitch Routes up to HVS, M&T Ticklist, Langdale 3* Severes, UK Holiday Plans, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Climbs The Lake District, Bridging Corners, Grooves, Diedres in the UK, Mountain Rock

Feedback

User Date Notes
LakesWinter 1 Nov, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: No way VS 5a. This sort of upgrade confuses the grading system. Severe covers the overall grade as Amen corner can easily be avoided and hence is low commitment. The moves are around 4b in terms of tech grade. Otherwise we are saying this route is only 1 adjective grade easier than Kipling Groove, Golden Slipper and Mithrandir, to pick some Langdale examples. This is crazy. These routes are more than 1 notch harder than B route.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: No way VS 5a. This sort of upgrade confuses the grading system. Severe covers the overall grade as Amen corner can easily be avoided and hence is low commitment. The moves are around 4b in terms of tech grade. Otherwise we are saying this route is only 1 adjective grade easier than Kipling Groove, Golden Slipper and Mithrandir, to pick some Langdale examples. This is crazy. These routes are more than 1 notch harder than B route.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 40
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 5
Votes cast 38
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest

North-West Climb

Grade: VS 4b ***
(Pillar)
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