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97m, 5 pitches.

Rockfax Description
On approaching the crag, the first towering rib is the setting for this classic expedition. The climbing is sustained and intricate but reasonably protected. The line is described here with the direct start. Start at a well-defined leftward-slanting crack.
1) 4b, 25m. Climb the slanting crack past a small overhang and continue before moving leftwards to a belay beneath an overhung corner.
2) 13m. The Bracket. Move up and then traverse awkwardly rightwards for 6m passing blocks, until a weakness can be followed back left to a stance and belay.
3) 25m. Climb rightwards up easy ground to the right-hand side of a steep corner (Amen Corner). Move up rightwards until a crack leads to easy-angled ground (The Gangway). Traverse right to a stance below a steep chimney/crack.
4) 4b, 8m. Climb the chimney/crack with difficulty to a good ledge and belay.
5) 20m. Move out leftwards from the chimney to the face on its left and follow this to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Classic Rock, Kendal Wall's Best 100 climbs in Britain, Lakeland's Best Multi-pitch Routes up to HVS, Langdale 3* Severes, The Original 'Classic Rock' List, UK Holiday Plans, The best the lakes has to offer for mere mortals (because it's not always as wet as kez thinks), Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Climbs The Lake District, Lake District Classic Rock Challenge, Mountain Rock, ROCKFAX Lake District: Top 50

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User Date Notes
simondgee 9 Aug Show βeta
βeta: Where has VS come from? Bench mark S 4b
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Where has VS come from? Bench mark S 4b
C Witter 15 Dec, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Not sure why this classic Severe has had a dodgy re-grade to VS. Is this inline with the "new" Rockfax Lakes guide? It now says in the description that it is described with "the direct start". It's a bit annoying to have Rockfax piss around changing an entry do many people have ticked, especially when there is already a separate direct start entry...
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Not sure why this classic Severe has had a dodgy re-grade to VS. Is this inline with the "new" Rockfax Lakes guide? It now says in the description that it is described with "the direct start". It's a bit annoying to have Rockfax piss around changing an entry do many people have ticked, especially when there is already a separate direct start entry...

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High HVS
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Votes cast 99
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Route of Interest

Dexter Wall

Grade: VS 5a ***
(Grey Crag (Buttermere))