The eye-catching chimney system to the right of the towering rib provides the line for this old-style classic. Start at a poorly defined low-angled rib just above the gearing-up spot.
1) 35m. Climb the rib and a chimney to a more difficult section that soon eases. Continue to a belay on a big ledge on the right.
2) 18m. Traverse a short way left, then ascend a groove and big crack to a stance below a steep chimney/crack.
3) 12m. Traverse right to the next chimney and take this to a good stance and belay in the gully above.
4) 22m. Move up and out rightwards from the chimney to the face on the right and follow this to the top. © Rockfax
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