UKC

Rockfax Description
Although the climbing takes a while to get going, the top pitch is one of the most memorable and exposed on the crag giving excellent well-protected climbing. Start as for The Crack.
1) 4b, 22m. As for The Crack.
2) 4c, 19m. Move up right to a block below an overhang, then climb the wide crack above it to a stance and belay in the corner.
3) 5b, 20m. Climb up the corner and move out left to a small ledge on the arete. Continue steeply on the right side of the arete, then move left around it to the base of a thin crack. Climb up the crack before stepping right to easier ground and the top not far above. © Rockfax

Ticklists

Allan Austin Classics, Ultimate E1 ticklist, UK Lonely Leads, Caffs 100 Lakeland Extremes, Caff's Cool E1s List, Lakeland's Greatest Pioneers, Arc'teryx Lakeland Revival 2017, Chris H's 100 Mega Classic Trad, A Lakeland E1 Odessey, UK Holiday Plans, 2019 all-rounder Psyche list, The best the lakes has to offer for mere mortals (because it's not always as wet as kez thinks), Nuts of Legends, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Climbs The Lake District, Bill Birkett (Classic Rock Climbs in the Lake District) Below E3, A Lakeland Apprenticeship, Lakeland E1 Classics

Feedback

User Date Notes
Martin Cooper 21 Jun Show βeta
βeta: James did P1 of Outside Tokyo to start and ran it together with P2 of GS. Lovely top pitch. Nothing as hard as the hard bits on Kipling Groove Better description for top pitch would be - from the stance, climb up up and leftwards to the edge of a hidden ledge. Climb the crack above the R hand end of this and at its finish move L around the arete. Climb the thin crack and wall above moving rightwards to finish.
Show beta
βeta: James did P1 of Outside Tokyo to start and ran it together with P2 of GS. Lovely top pitch. Nothing as hard as the hard bits on Kipling Groove Better description for top pitch would be - from the stance, climb up up and leftwards to the edge of a hidden ledge. Climb the crack above the R hand end of this and at its finish move L around the arete. Climb the thin crack and wall above moving rightwards to finish.
Jaomes 6 Jul, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: P1 and P3. P3 amazing, like a sport route after the first few metres
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: P1 and P3. P3 amazing, like a sport route after the first few metres

Logged Ascents

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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 64
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 66
Votes cast 66
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest

The Bludgeon

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Shepherd’s Crag)
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