A wild top pitch. Start at a buttress with a crack/groove running up it. This is about 30m up from the base of The Crack.
1) 4c, 25m. Climb the crack/groove then follow the easy-angled arete to a belay at the foot of a narrow rib.
2) 5a, 14m. Climb up a flake and move right to a short slab. Climb the right edge of the bulge above with difficulty until the angle eases. Continue to belay on a small stance.
3) 5b, 28m. Climb up towards the corner before making a slightly rising traverse left across the overhung and undercut slabs to reach the foot of a square-cut left-facing corner. Climb the corner until below the roof. On the right is a fang of rock - gain this with difficulty and traverse the steep blank wall to good holds in a corner. Finish up the corner. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Pitch 1 (4c). Start right of Godiva Groove below a buttress with a crack/shallow groove running up it. Climb the groove pleasantly left then right of the crack. Continue up a laid-back arete to a stance at the foot of a blunt rib, below a precarious-looking flake a few metres left of the corner of Hiatus Pitch 2.
Pitch 2 (5a). Climb up by the flake and step right on to a short slab. Climb the right edge of the bulge above the slab with increasing difficulty until the angle eases and continue to belay on a small stance (as for end of pitch 2 Hiatus) some way below the impressive overhangs.
Pitch 3 (5b). Climb the left edge of the slab above and follow the line of Hiatus, traversing left across the overhung and undercut slab to reach the foot of a square-cut corner. Climb the corner until a very cramped "resting place" is reached below the roof. Round to the right is to be found a rattly fang which is reached with difficulty and used to traverse the steep holdless wall (crux) to good holds and the sanctuary of a corner. After equanimity is regained, the corner leads uneventfully to the top.
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