A grand line which improves near the top, though the first two pitches are poor. Best attempted in very dry conditions. Start at a steep wall just left of The Crack.
1) 4b, 30m. Climb the steep wall to a ledge and go left over grass ledges to a broad scoop. Move up and then round the arete on the right before climbing its right-hand side to a gully. Cross the gully and move over ledges diagonally left to reach a ledge and belay under the massive corner-line.
2) 4a, 25m. Climb the vegetated corner for 10m to a ledge on the left. Continue up cracks and then the corner and slab above to gain a belay at a shallow recess.
3) 4b, 20m. A spectacular and exposed pitch. Climb up the corner towards the roof, before making a slightly rising traverse left across the overhung and undercut slabs to reach the foot of a square-cut left-facing corner. Climb this for 2m, then follow a devious up-and-down traverse below a hanging rib to gain a groove leading to a superbly positioned stance.
4) 4b, 12m. Take the exposed slabs up and left, and finish up a short awkward groove. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Pitch 1 (4b) Climb the steep wall just left of the start of The Crack (by-passing the queues) to a ledge. Sneak round left over grass ledges (to avoid the hard steep crack) to climb a broad scoop, then round the arête to climb its right side, passing the crowds on the stance for The Crack, Dight, Gimmer String, etc. (It is possible but less pleasant to climb the right leaning corner/gully to reach the same point). Cross the dank gully and climb ledges diagonally left to reach a large cosy ledge at the foot of the huge soaring corner groove.
Pitch 2 (4b) Climb the initially manky corner for about 10m to a ledge on the left (tiny juniper tree). (Inertia starts here, up the hanging groove to the right.) Continue up awkward cracks, then the corner proper, finally the slab (loose block) to a fine small stance in a shallow recess.
Pitch 3 (4b) The best 4b pitch on the crag, with superb and devious climbing in spectacular and exposed positions. Steady leader and second required. Climb up rightwards towards the corner then traverse left over an alarmingly perched pillar to reach a small chimney. Up again, then traverse left across the overhung and undercut slab to reach the foot of a square-cut L-facing corner. Climb this for 2m then follow a devious up-and-down traverse below a hanging rib to reach a groove leading to a superbly positioned stance.
Pitch 4 (4b) Short but sweet. Neglect the evil-looking mossy cracks above (Bridge's Variation, 5a) in favour of the exposed slabs up and left, and finish up a short awkward groove.
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