Climbs 56
Rocktype Schist
Altitude 200m a.s.l
Faces S

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Andy Nisbet on Dogg'Ed © John Mackenzie

Crag features

This pleasant crag gets a lot of sun and dries quickly. Climbing is possible all year around.

Must Do: Sea of Tranquility HVS, Proteus HVS and Strategic Arms Limitation E4. The sport routes on the steep wall are also excellent.

Every now an then a thorough clean of the popular routes gets completed and the bracken cut from the approach path and below the crag, the ticks can be bad but no worse ticks than elsewhere in Strathconon!

Top Crag has several good strenuous and well protected crack climbs very different in style from the Main Crag and worth a bit of a clean to keep in good condition. It is best reached by keeping to the right of the Main Crag on the approach or by moving from the top of the Main Crag rightwards an eventually downwards. There is also a Middle Crag with two scruffy routes of V.Diff and Severe withg potential for more if cleaned. On the far right is Right Crag (good name!) with a 25m E2 5b on it.

To help keep the cracks free of heather and grass could folk 'broddle' any out whilst climbing? This would save a huge amount of work on the 'stitch in time' principle. Thank you. There are too few sunny south-facing crags and its worth keeping this one in good nick.

Approach notes

From Contin take the single track road past Loch Achilty and after a few miles and just past the power station the road splits where it crosses the river. Take the right branch to a parking spot by the gate. This is open 8am to 5pm weekdays but often locked at weekends. Either drive or walk the half-mile to a parking spot, cross the dam and follow the new road to where it bends left then cut up the hillside by the trees - faint path - which is to the right of the crag then to traverse leftwards underneath it; 15 minutes or so from the dam.

left a wild country 2.5 yellow cam, if found please let me know xox
et19 - 08/May/22
March 2020 forum thread about bolting activity at this Crag:
drconline - 12/Mar/21
Good crag but do take a brush!
Andy Moles - 27/May/18
Small Wall at the left end of the Main Crag now has several more routes, all described in the climbs section. It has been thoroughly cleaned and has two metal belay stakes plus a large boulder and is suitable for warm-up climbs or top-roping. It catches any midge defying breeze and dries almost instantaneously.
John Mackenzie - 05/Jul/15
Sling/ Krab gone from tree above Phobos - 23 September 2012.
Vigier - 24/Sep/12
Due to vandalism / theft, the gate may be found locked at weekends (should be open 8am - 5pm weekdays), but this will only add 5-10 mins to the walk in.
Jimmy56 - 24/May/10
Best avoided in Tick season but decent, grippy rock and short walk in make it a useful stop off.
richardr - 19/Oct/08
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Climbs at this crag

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These climbs you have climbed clean.
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