UKC Logbook - 'Strategic Arms Limitation'

25m. The 'showpiece of the crag' climbing the 1 in 4 overhanging corner to the right of Greased Lightning. Well protected but use two ropes as the bird-limed edge some way up has a sharp edge. The top (easy) slab needs further brushing. There is an initial pitch of 4c, 10m, up the lower wall which needs cleaned and takes the left-hand of two cracks; the other is the first pitch of Greased Lightning.

With Cerberus climbed just to the right the 'final' challenge is the overhanging groove right again.

John Mackenzie and Bob Brown 26/Aug/1989.

Ticklists

Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes , Ultimate Scottish Trad Ticklist E1 to E5

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User	Date		Notes
Robertgiddy	30 Jun, 2024	Show βeta βeta: The sharp flake issue can be avoided by using two ropes and clipping one rope to runners below the sharp edge and one to runners above the sharp edge, if your belayer is positioned well the rope on the upper gear will not run over the edge. Top slab clean enough to onsight (mossy but the actual holds are clean). Don't be put off by the bird shite!	βeta?
Show beta βeta: The sharp flake issue can be avoided by using two ropes and clipping one rope to runners below the sharp edge and one to runners above the sharp edge, if your belayer is positioned well the rope on the upper gear will not run over the edge. Top slab clean enough to onsight (mossy but the actual holds are clean). Don't be put off by the bird shite!