Rockfax Description
The character building rifts on the right edge. Start 3m right of the large Capstan block.
1) 25m. Climb the rib and crack as for Lot's Wife then move right into the base of the mighty rift below the overhangs.
2) 18m. Up the chasm until an exit right is possible. Head left over blocks back to the gully.
3) 15m. A crack on the left leads to flakes. Go behind these then back right into the gully.
4) 20m. Do battle with the jaws of the Vertical Vice then finish up the corner above.
4a) 25m. If the Vertical Vice shuts you down a devious escape can be made. Move up into the slot on the left. Tunnel in along the passage to where the chasm turns a corner. Head round this and chimney up the easier slot to be reborn on the top of the crag. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
7 Pitch
FA. J.Thompson, H.Jones, L.Noon 1910 15/Jun/1910.
Ticklists
A grand easy welsh day out , Connoisseur's Classic Rock , North Wales Rock Graded List , Through Routes! , North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , Enigmatic Affection: The Dark Art of Chimneying , Snowdonia in Chains , Magical mysterious and unusual beasts of rock & myth , Mountain Rock , Gwen Moffat: Space Below My Feet , Scrambles and low grade mountain trad adventures , The Road to Goblin Town , North Wales Rock - Wired 2025
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Graeme Hammond | 11 May |
Show βeta
βeta: WARNING: the CC 2009 Ogwen guide has the upper pitches shown in the topo on P167 completely wrong, going up the dangerously loose block filled chimney above the initial chasm chimney. Follow the description going left back into the main gully. Aiming for around where the number 13 is on the topo and the fallen splinter (large wedge block) is just visible. The RockFax North Wales guide 2013, P180 has the same mistake (did they copy?). Someone is going to have a nasty accident if they follow the topo and the hollow blocks come out! The best topo is in Steve Broadbent's book Mountain Rock 2020. The Rockfax 2023 version however has been corrected but not the app so far May 2025. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: WARNING: the CC 2009 Ogwen guide has the upper pitches shown in the topo on P167 completely wrong, going up the dangerously loose block filled chimney above the initial chasm chimney. Follow the description going left back into the main gully. Aiming for around where the number 13 is on the topo and the fallen splinter (large wedge block) is just visible. The RockFax North Wales guide 2013, P180 has the same mistake (did they copy?). Someone is going to have a nasty accident if they follow the topo and the hollow blocks come out! The best topo is in Steve Broadbent's book Mountain Rock 2020. The Rockfax 2023 version however has been corrected but not the app so far May 2025. |
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| alr1970 | 14 Jun, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: Sadly a fatality. https://www.manchestereveningnews.co.uk/news/greater-manchester-news/manchester-woman-who-died-after-24221499 | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Sadly a fatality. https://www.manchestereveningnews.co.uk/news/greater-manchester-news/manchester-woman-who-died-after-24221499 |
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| David Dickinson | 3 Jun, 2022 |
Show βeta
βeta: This route was the scene of a bad accident yesterday. There is quite a bit of blood in the chimney, it's probably best to leave it for a while | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: This route was the scene of a bad accident yesterday. There is quite a bit of blood in the chimney, it's probably best to leave it for a while |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Glyder Fach
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Lockwood's Chimney
Grade: VD ***
(Clogwyn y Bustach)