Classic hard scrambling on the Glyder Fach - North Face. Start to the right of the Alphabet Slab just left of East Gully.
1) Go up into the gully to where it becomes steep and damp. Move out left along a seam of quartz, which leads strenuously to a small ledge and spike belay.
2) Step right and head up through steep terrain, meandering around to find the easiest line, to reach a much larger terrace. This point can be gained by traversing in from Main Gully, if this looks too hard, as the rest of the route is easier.
3) From below a ridge, take the tricky right edge to a notch below a thinner rib. Climb this on good holds for 30m to a level area.
4) Above are some blocks. Clamber over these for 10m to a another notch, by some piled blocks.
5) Jam up the short hand-crack to get stood on a spike at its top. Head up and left to a narrow ledge. The climbing eases here and leads you to a block belay below a notch.
6) Above you converge with Main Gully Ridge as it comes in from the left, and just above you merge with East Gully. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Start to the right of alphabet slab inside east gully left wall where streaks of quarts are climb up to the rib overlooking east gully
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