The original route of the buttress trends left to right to find the easiest line. Steady climbing although the crucial mantelshelf is a bit of a stopper.
1) 10m. Trend right up slabby rock to a spike belay.
2) 4b, 10m. Move round right then climb the slot to a jammed block before making a hard mantelshelf out right. Belay in the recess just a little higher.
3) 14m. Climb easy rock then the chimney behind the tower of blocks and flakes to reach open ground and the top. © Rockfax
FA. G.Abraham, A.Abraham, A.Thompson 1905 15/Jun/1905.
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