A pleasant short and technical route that takes on the blunt arete to the right of Main Gully. Start by walking up to the left of the prominent triangle of the Alphabet Slab to below the gully. Start up main gully and, before it gets steep, go right along a terrace across the top of the Alphabet Slab.
Direct Start - The climbing route Beta (3+) Gains this point via the Alphabet Slab for those with more experience.
1) From some spikes, make a rising traverse rightwards to gain a block on the edge of the ridge. A move onto a second block leads onto a grassy area.
2) Take the left side of the grassy area to a level area on top of an embedded plinth.
3) Direct above is an impasse, so go right up the rift then exit up a chimney to gain East Gully Ridge for the last few moves, then on to East Gully. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Also listed as a moderate rock climb in the Climbers Club Ogwen guidebook.
Scrambles in Snowdonia - Steve Ashton , Colin Kirkus' routes , 10 Year Walking And Scrambling Challenge , Snowdonia Mountain Walks and Scrambles - Mark Reeves , British 3 Star Scrambles , Snowdonia *** Scrambles
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