UKC

Rockfax Description
Great rock and superb situations plus delicate climbing up the rib that is the central feature here. Start on the left-hand side of the arete, below a short groove. Approach by following Indirect Start to Senior's Ridge to its traverse then continue direct to the base of the clean grey ribs.
1) 5a, 30m. Make a hard pull into the groove and climb it until you can pull round onto the slab, which leads to a grassy ledge and belay.
2) 5a, 45m. Balance up the arete to a ledge and a possible stance. No real gear on this section and a committing move near the top. Climb the tricky crack that splits the arete and tries to shove you off leftwards. Chimney the top section and finish up the short wall above. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List , North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , Ultimate HVS ticklist , Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist , AMC Uni Ticklist , 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs , Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Bold Tradprenticeship , Consolidation VS-HVS , 3 Star - North Wales HS - HVS

Feedback

User Date Notes
Lankcroft 1 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: The line on the ground up topo for P2 is hopelessly wrong (at least in our version, the one with the axe on the front cover). The description is correct though. You want to be much further left than indicated after the initial bold section (once you get to the "ledge on the left arete" described in the text.) From here the crack widens before jinking back right literally on the left arete.
Show beta
βeta: The line on the ground up topo for P2 is hopelessly wrong (at least in our version, the one with the axe on the front cover). The description is correct though. You want to be much further left than indicated after the initial bold section (once you get to the "ledge on the left arete" described in the text.) From here the crack widens before jinking back right literally on the left arete.
RobertHucknall 13 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: First pitch is pretty much a (brilliant) 4c solo, bad gear mid height. Sketchy flake for belay on the ledge, not sure what it'd hold. 5a pitch is outstanding.
Show beta
βeta: First pitch is pretty much a (brilliant) 4c solo, bad gear mid height. Sketchy flake for belay on the ledge, not sure what it'd hold. 5a pitch is outstanding.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Glyder Fawr

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 42
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 40
Votes cast 38
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Whillan's Crack

Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Rhinog Fawr South Faces)

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