A brilliant but hard-won classic with tremendous positions. Start at the base of a wide corner-crack.
1) 5b, 25m. Climb the crack to stand on a huge flake. Continue up the crack with more difficulty, to the top of a 'pod like' widening where moves left gain a slabby wall. Head up this and a short groove on the right to a belay at a tree.
2) 4c, 20m. Climb the left-trending ramp and at its end traverse left on small holds to a groove. Head up the groove for 5m, then move right to a belay under overhangs.
3) 4c, 32m. Traverse 8m right to a grassy ledge and possible stance. Move right and climb the tricky wall to below a wide scoop that runs all the way to the top. Follow the wide scoop and its slabby left wall to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
The crux pitch is strenuous before a delicate finish. The upper pitches are intricate and audacious for the grade and provide the quality. Another 'Hard Rock' classic.
The correct pitch grades are 5b, 4c, 4c.
Les Brown 1965.
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