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Climbs 191
Rocktype Limestone

Faces S

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The excellent Gollum (E1 5b) © stvredmond

Crag features

Quality steep and sound limestone. Very quick drying. Climbing is strenuous, but generally well protected, with quite a few real gems.
Very under starred in the current guide.

Watch out for ticks in the summer.

 

RAVENS NESTING AGAIN ON OCRIST - EAGLE ROCK. PLEASE AVOID CLIMBING THE LEFT SIDE OF EAGLE ROCK ( Trim The Fringe to Route March) UNTIL FURTHER NOTICE.

Approach notes


Situated about eight miles SW of Bristol, just beyond the village of Cleeve on the A370. From Bristol, turn east along Cleeve Hill Road just before the Lord Nelson Inn. Carry on for about
400 metres until you reach a small car park by a quarried wall. A small track leads into the Combe itself from a small building to the left of the quarry.

Access Advice

In Nov 2014 the BMC was contacted by Groundworks South who own the main crag, following a helicopter rescue of a climber nearby. Groundworks have advised that they do not formally allow climbing at the site however after several attempts to arrange a meeting to discuss climbing access, nothing has been forthcoming so far. Climbing at Goblin Coombe is not allowed by the landowner, but if climbers do decide to visit the crag and are asked to leave by Groundworks staff, they should do so politely.

As with any crag, climbing here is an activity with a danger of personal injury or death. Participants should be aware of and accept these risks and be responsible for their own actions.

 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 February to 15 May

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ravens are nest on Eagle Rock - the buttress should be avoided until the signs are removed.

The flagpole at the top of Toot Rock has gone. There is just a wooden stump left.
cpoad - 13/May/19
The flagpole at the top of Toot Rock seems to have gone. There is just a short broken wooden pole left now.
cpoad - 12/May/19
Great little crag in an even greater setting.
Ander - 22/Apr/19
Climbed here for the first time yesterday; excellent little crag with good routes across a wide spectrum of grades. Good gear and superb rock. Will be back soon!
Gabe Oliver - 04/Oct/15
The peg on Moments in Space has now gone. Snapped during a short fall yesterday in wet slippery conditions. It was a rusty old knife blade. Not sure if the placement will take another. Route still protectable but a bit bolder maybe?
Didymus - 31/Jul/15
Currently restoring the overgrown routes. Gremlin Groove and Radagast both now in tip top condition.
Mark Davies PK - 11/Mar/14
Pulled a hold of Mithril a few days ago, it's marginally harder but not enough to change the grade.
remus - 08/Sep/12
Really excellent crag and a much higher quality of climbing than the star distribution would suggest. Though the tick infestation is severe!
Kemics - 21/Jul/12
A reminder to watch out for ticks, I have picked up at least one on three out of four trips here in the last couple of years. Do do a thorough check when you get home!
Bobling - 12/Aug/11
Don't leave anything of value in your car as it has been known for the local scumbags to break in to them for a rummage!
maresia - 29/May/09
Beware of ticks. Nasty little baggers which can quickly turn a day of climbing into chimpanzee level and style of grooming. Make sure you have long sleeves and trousers or a decent repellent. (if they work on ticks!?!)
Piers - 23/Jun/08
Gift Tolkien has a roosting barn owl at the top in cracks in the wall. Maybe think twice about disturbing!!
liz j - 03/Sep/07
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Climbs at this crag

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