UKC

Restricted Access

Ownership of the combe is divided between Avon Wildlife Trust (who own the eastern section) and the charitable trust Groundworks South (who own the western section where the majority of the crags are located). The Landowner does not allow climbing on the crags. If climbers do decide to visit and are asked to leave by Groundworks staff, they should do so politely and as quickly as is safely possible.

Be aware that there are frequently loose blocks at the top of the smaller buttresses - a cautious approach is advised. As with any crag, climbing here is an activity with a danger of personal injury or death. Participants should be aware of and accept these risks and be responsible for their own actions.  

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 15 February to 15 May

Reason: Nesting Birds

Ravens are nesting on Eagle Rock - the buttress should be avoided until the signs are removed.

20m. A quality eliminate that tackles the bulging rock between 'Smaug The Dragon' and 'The Goblin King' which surprisingly offers almost entirely independent climbing. A good small wire protects a hard crux sequence at the start of the steepness before battling up to better holds and good gear. Continue up the still steep rock on great holds right of the groove of Smaug, and finish directly up to the tree belay on loose looking, but solid rock (as for Bullroarer). An old top rope rope problem that has had no recorded lead.

R Stanfield/M Davies (first recorded ascent) 04/Mar/2014.

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High E4
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High E3
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High 6a
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High 5b
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Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Onsighted
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Krapp's Last Tape

Grade: E3 5b ***
(Avon Gorge (Main Area))

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