72m, 3 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A steep and exciting journey up the very centre of the wall - a Gorge classic. Start 20m left of the huge corner at a well-trodden patch of ground clear of brambles, beneath a bolt at 9m.
1) 5c, 26m. Move up shale covered ledges to the bolt. Make an awkward short traverse left and up to better holds and another bolt above. Trend right and move up into a vertical borehole and good small wires. Move up to the top of the borehole, peg, and traverse steeply left to a grassy ledge and pull onto it. Move up right to another good ledge with a double staple bolt belay.
2) 5b, 22m. Clip a ring peg above the ledge on the right and make surprisingly difficult moves up the wall and onto a hollow flake/ledge. Move up leftwards and clip a peg before traversing left on good pockets to a peg and deep pocket (just above a prominent metal spike). Climb a crack above the pocket and gain a small ledge, peg. Stand on the ledge and move up the wall to easier ground. Traverse left past a good calcite thread, and the base of the impending corner above, and make steep moves up past a couple of pegs to a hanging belay on a spike and good nuts.
3) 5b, 22m. Climb rightwards on great holds with feet above the overhang past a thread to a harder section where the wall turns smoother. Gain a small pancake of rock (good thin-sling runner) and prominent peg. Now gain the right-to-left sloping ramp and follow this on rounded but plentiful holds to a steep exit near its end. A wildly exposed pitch. © Rockfax

D Ivory, E Hart (T Gloag, P Johnston (1 aid pt) May/1972) 1973

Ticklists

Great Wall Climbs of the UK, Rockfax SW select - Avon gorge routes, West Country Climbs, Rockfax West Country top 50, CLIMB Mag's Top 100 routes in Britain, Ultimate E3 ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Becky's ticklist, First E3's

Feedback

UserDateNotes
jld579 5 Aug Show βeta
βeta: Pumped and rainy, nearly arse rocketed off the muddy topout. Apart from that and getting the ropes stuck a great route!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Pumped and rainy, nearly arse rocketed off the muddy topout. Apart from that and getting the ropes stuck a great route!
widdlestickmcpoos 4 Aug Show βeta
βeta: Sketchy top out in the rain, unexpectedly difficult and hold-less.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Sketchy top out in the rain, unexpectedly difficult and hold-less.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden 7 Aug AltLd O/S
dbottomley 7 Aug AltLd
with tom.wp6
with tom.wp6
jld579 3 Aug AltLd O/S
widdlestickmcpoos 3 Aug AltLd O/S
with jld579
with jld579
mshorter 27 Jul AltLd O/S
sparkass 27 Jul AltLd O/S
AJM 30 Jun AltLd O/S A good all round adventure. Didn't feel easy but maybe that's due to lack of familiarity with the Avon style in general, I reckon it's been nearly 6 years :) Dave pulled a hold off just above the bolt on P1 and lobbed off which was entertaining; I led 1 & 3 in the end. Spacey gear, some balancey climbing, some shaky rock, a bit blowy and blustery... ice cream to finish...
with Dave Westlake
A good all round adventure. Didn't feel easy but maybe that's due to lack of familiarity with the Avon style in general, I reckon it's been nearly 6 years :) Dave pulled a hold off just above the bolt on P1 and lobbed off which was entertaining; I led 1 & 3 in the end. Spacey gear, some balancey climbing, some shaky rock, a bit blowy and blustery... ice cream to finish...
with Dave Westlake
ollie1 26 Jun Lead O/S
Dominic Acland 26 Jun AltLd rpt I led P2, happy to be back on and do it all free this time.
with ollie1
I led P2, happy to be back on and do it all free this time.
with ollie1
Dan Arkle 17 May - P1 and 3
with Donie
P1 and 3
with Donie
rosso 15 May 2nd dog Amazing climbing. Wonderful kneebar on P3 followed by a thread fast. I made sure I removed two holds on P1 and P2, only fell on the first one.
Amazing climbing. Wonderful kneebar on P3 followed by a thread fast. I made sure I removed two holds on P1 and P2, only fell on the first one.
danieljames123 15 May Lead One of my favorites thus far in the gorge. Rock quality is... as it looks, but never had it critically matter. Accidentally directly up instead of out left on P1, so missed the second bolt and had a hell of a runout. Perfect with the setting sun.
with rosso
One of my favorites thus far in the gorge. Rock quality is... as it looks, but never had it critically matter. Accidentally directly up instead of out left on P1, so missed the second bolt and had a hell of a runout. Perfect with the setting sun.
with rosso
edgar 13 May AltLd O/S
with Jamie Evans
with Jamie Evans
jamieevans 13 May AltLd dog Humbled. Went the wrong way at the start of pitch two had to grab the draw. Meaty and sustained. One to get another day.
Humbled. Went the wrong way at the start of pitch two had to grab the draw. Meaty and sustained. One to get another day.
Matt Clifton 18 Apr TR rpt
with Terry Traxion
with Terry Traxion
R0BJ0N 6 Apr 2nd O/S
with Dom Acland, Dominic Teichmann
with Dom Acland, Dominic Teichmann
Dominic Acland 6 Apr Lead dog Awesome route, loved it. Led all 3 pitches in the end, after Dr Dom took a whipper on P3. Took a rest on P2 and pulled on a peg on P3 but got P1 clean!
with Dr Dom, R0BJ0N
Awesome route, loved it. Led all 3 pitches in the end, after Dr Dom took a whipper on P3. Took a rest on P2 and pulled on a peg on P3 but got P1 clean!
with Dr Dom, R0BJ0N
DomTe 6 Apr 2nd O/S
with Rob Johnson
with Rob Johnson
lieraza 12 Sep, 2018 2nd O/S
with Malcolm, Steffi
with Malcolm, Steffi
chrisscutt 25 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S Aswome climb!! Lead the 1st and 3rd pitches. The 3rd being the best. My first lead E3’s
with Rob
Aswome climb!! Lead the 1st and 3rd pitches. The 3rd being the best. My first lead E3’s
with Rob
Tom Seccombe 5 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
with Alex
with Alex
Hidden 19 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S
davkeo 19 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S Very Gogarth-esque, as mentioned on here. Absolutely top drawer & sustained climbing over all 3 pitches. Absorbing & interesting throughout with a variety of rock, moves & holds. I led p1&3. P1 was bold with some loose stuff low down. P3 is stunning & felt really out there with great exposure & weird balancey moves up the ramp. Super impressive lead by Anni on p2 which was v sustained & required composure & good gear management. Perhaps just as full on for the second on this pitch & I would say E3 on all pitches. Overall one of the best at this grade (or any) I have done. Would have been a perfect first time visit to Avon if not for the tick attack on the top belay & the fact neither of us took money for the ice cream van.
Very Gogarth-esque, as mentioned on here. Absolutely top drawer & sustained climbing over all 3 pitches. Absorbing & interesting throughout with a variety of rock, moves & holds. I led p1&3. P1 was bold with some loose stuff low down. P3 is stunning & felt really out there with great exposure & weird balancey moves up the ramp. Super impressive lead by Anni on p2 which was v sustained & required composure & good gear management. Perhaps just as full on for the second on this pitch & I would say E3 on all pitches. Overall one of the best at this grade (or any) I have done. Would have been a perfect first time visit to Avon if not for the tick attack on the top belay & the fact neither of us took money for the ice cream van.
alexbooker87 11 Jun, 2018 AltLd
with Macca_7
with Macca_7
Hidden 11 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S
Paz 23 May, 2018 AltLd rpt P2. Nearly 15 years after I first did this. Nearly 10 years after I last did this. It's nice to know I'm not completely shit these days. There are some birds of an Unknown species currently nesting deep behind the flake by the second belay (the hanging stance), but they didn't leave the nest while I was there, just made a racket. You could belay higher on the thread, lower on other gear and a thread, or in Amanita Muscarina's groove if this is a problem.
with DC
P2. Nearly 15 years after I first did this. Nearly 10 years after I last did this. It's nice to know I'm not completely shit these days. There are some birds of an Unknown species currently nesting deep behind the flake by the second belay (the hanging stance), but they didn't leave the nest while I was there, just made a racket. You could belay higher on the thread, lower on other gear and a thread, or in Amanita Muscarina's groove if this is a problem.
with DC
Hidden 8 May, 2018 2nd
Mark Reeves 8 May, 2018 AltLd Great route for Urbaneering.
Great route for Urbaneering.
JendeHoxar 10 Nov, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Flavio
with Flavio
Flavio 10 Nov, 2017 AltLd O/S Crazy to think this route is inside a city, the top-out was surreal. I sat belaying by the fence eyeballing the ice cream van which swiftly left before Jenny topped out and I could make an order :(
Crazy to think this route is inside a city, the top-out was surreal. I sat belaying by the fence eyeballing the ice cream van which swiftly left before Jenny topped out and I could make an order :(
roberto18 8 Oct, 2017 AltLd O/S Great route. Very contrasting pitches with a bold but brilliant final pitch. Been on my bucket list for a while, so thanks to my uncle (his 4th time) for showing me the route.
with KRB
Great route. Very contrasting pitches with a bold but brilliant final pitch. Been on my bucket list for a while, so thanks to my uncle (his 4th time) for showing me the route.
with KRB
hutchay 6 Oct, 2017 Lead O/S led every pitch, awesome route
led every pitch, awesome route
David Clover 3 Oct, 2017 2nd
RagingPuffin 18 Sep, 2017 AltLd rpt Led P1 and 3. Wild and wonderful as ever!
with Peter
Led P1 and 3. Wild and wonderful as ever!
with Peter
Hugh Simons 13 Sep, 2017 AltLd O/S Very very good. I led pitch 1 and 3. Technically a lot more straightforward than I was expecting. Just need a cool head. Quality position on the upper 2 pitches. Awesome first day climbing in the gorge!
Very very good. I led pitch 1 and 3. Technically a lot more straightforward than I was expecting. Just need a cool head. Quality position on the upper 2 pitches. Awesome first day climbing in the gorge!
Euan Todd 13 Sep, 2017 AltLd O/S Just awesome! I led p2, felt like bold-ish E2 5b. Shaley rock is a little unsettling on p1 but it's not at the hard moves. p2 was really absorbing and took a lot of figuring out. p3 is so good, really exposed but on big holds! I definitely think a week of committing sea-cliffs immediately beforehand made this feel a lot easier/calmer than it otherwise might have! E3 5c ***.
Just awesome! I led p2, felt like bold-ish E2 5b. Shaley rock is a little unsettling on p1 but it's not at the hard moves. p2 was really absorbing and took a lot of figuring out. p3 is so good, really exposed but on big holds! I definitely think a week of committing sea-cliffs immediately beforehand made this feel a lot easier/calmer than it otherwise might have! E3 5c ***.
aiyer 2 Sep, 2017 Lead O/S Broken after having the pleasure of leading all three pitches. All amazing - varied and wild.
Broken after having the pleasure of leading all three pitches. All amazing - varied and wild.
patrickcd 2 Sep, 2017 2nd Great cool-headed leads by Abi.
with aiyer
Great cool-headed leads by Abi.
with aiyer
Peter Durin ?Sep, 2017 AltLd
KRB 23 Aug, 2017 Lead rpt Brilliant climb. It really is one of the best for the whole climbing experience. Perfect 2nd from Ollie - aside from spending 10 minutes getting the ropes untangled on the hanging belay.
Brilliant climb. It really is one of the best for the whole climbing experience. Perfect 2nd from Ollie - aside from spending 10 minutes getting the ropes untangled on the hanging belay.
J_Spooner 1 Aug, 2017 AltLd
with Ben Smart, Will Birkett
with Ben Smart, Will Birkett
Hidden 15 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S
AlexRenshaw 2 Jul, 2017 AltLd
julesmckim 2 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S A great outing! Three fantastic and contrasting pitches. Led 1 and 3. First pitch a rude awakening from a mild hangover, slightly necky but never technically hard. Rock quality improves with height. Upper pitch simply magnificent: elegant line, run out in places, wonderful rock and thrilling exposure. Favourite route in Avon, until we did Them later on
A great outing! Three fantastic and contrasting pitches. Led 1 and 3. First pitch a rude awakening from a mild hangover, slightly necky but never technically hard. Rock quality improves with height. Upper pitch simply magnificent: elegant line, run out in places, wonderful rock and thrilling exposure. Favourite route in Avon, until we did Them later on
alexm198 14 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S Someone should inform Gogarth that one of its routes has escaped and is currently hiding in the Avon Gorge! Absorbing, technical climbing on all three pitches with a superbly exposed finish up the Mousetrap-esque ramp. I thought gear was quite adequate throughout, though there are a few bold moves at the start of the first pitch. Led P2.
Someone should inform Gogarth that one of its routes has escaped and is currently hiding in the Avon Gorge! Absorbing, technical climbing on all three pitches with a superbly exposed finish up the Mousetrap-esque ramp. I thought gear was quite adequate throughout, though there are a few bold moves at the start of the first pitch. Led P2.
Matt Harle 14 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S 1st and 3rd pitches. Some wild chicken head slinging on the final pitch!
1st and 3rd pitches. Some wild chicken head slinging on the final pitch!
redjerry 7 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Robert Fielding
with Robert Fielding
Ellis Bird 1 Jun, 2017 Lead
Avon Man 30 May, 2017 Lead O/S Just P1.
with Derek
Just P1.
with Derek
ferdia 3 May, 2017 AltLd O/S
Andy Moles 3 May, 2017 AltLd First route in Avon. Wasn't too impressed with the shaley first pitch but the rest of the route is amazing. The move where the block has come off on P1 is still OK at slightly necky 5c. You can ab straight to the ground on 60s.
with ferdia
First route in Avon. Wasn't too impressed with the shaley first pitch but the rest of the route is amazing. The move where the block has come off on P1 is still OK at slightly necky 5c. You can ab straight to the ground on 60s.
with ferdia
#4fs 29 Apr, 2017 Lead dnf Pulled a chunk of rock (15 to 20 kg) off this just reaching the shot hole above 2nd bolt on pitch 1. I would be surprised if it's not a good bit more difficult now. Unfortunately I wasn't able to hang around to check. . . Awful description in new CC SW selected. Proper book at bed time stuff. Give me a description I can remember.
Pulled a chunk of rock (15 to 20 kg) off this just reaching the shot hole above 2nd bolt on pitch 1. I would be surprised if it's not a good bit more difficult now. Unfortunately I wasn't able to hang around to check. . . Awful description in new CC SW selected. Proper book at bed time stuff. Give me a description I can remember.
Hidden 26 Nov, 2016 TR dnf
Hidden 25 Nov, 2016 TR dnf
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 2 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S A very unlikely urban adventure: more Gogarth than a lot of Gogarth. Even topped out for an ice cream and - of all things - Massive Attack doing a sound check for their forthcoming gig!!
A very unlikely urban adventure: more Gogarth than a lot of Gogarth. Even topped out for an ice cream and - of all things - Massive Attack doing a sound check for their forthcoming gig!!
penny.orr 2 Sep, 2016 2nd O/S Topped out to hear Massive Attack doing sound checks for their upcoming gig in the park! Surreal.
Topped out to hear Massive Attack doing sound checks for their upcoming gig in the park! Surreal.
Legs 31 Aug, 2016 2nd I seconded an old boy up the whole thing. Great climb. Found pitch one had the hardest move after the first peg. Probably should have lead pitch two but I was enjoying seconding. Maybe tempted to come back to it when I am stronger. Classic
I seconded an old boy up the whole thing. Great climb. Found pitch one had the hardest move after the first peg. Probably should have lead pitch two but I was enjoying seconding. Maybe tempted to come back to it when I am stronger. Classic
Jonny_86 24 Jul, 2016 AltLd P2. Epic route!!!!
P2. Epic route!!!!
Hidden 24 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S
Dan Hale 5 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S
with Lauren Holliman
with Lauren Holliman
Hidden 19 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S
Chris_barr 19 Jun, 2016 AltLd P1 (in the rain) and P3
with Guy
P1 (in the rain) and P3
with Guy
No? Yes! 7 Jun, 2016 2nd Flaky rock start leading to a great top pitch
with Rob Andrews
Flaky rock start leading to a great top pitch
with Rob Andrews
Hidden 15 May, 2016 AltLd O/S
Mark Warnett ?May, 2016 AltLd O/S Pitch 1 & 3; when road was closed for marathon, amazing positions and good climbing on top pitch especially. Best route at Avon I've done
with Andy O'Conner
Pitch 1 & 3; when road was closed for marathon, amazing positions and good climbing on top pitch especially. Best route at Avon I've done
with Andy O'Conner
felixizzy 24 Apr, 2016 2nd dog Small fall on the last pitch... Solid lead from Mike!
with Mike
Small fall on the last pitch... Solid lead from Mike!
with Mike
kenneM 24 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S Amazing route - SW classic and a real adventure. Lead all three pitches but amazing result for Felix as his first route of the season!
with Felix
Amazing route - SW classic and a real adventure. Lead all three pitches but amazing result for Felix as his first route of the season!
with Felix
shoulders 22 Nov, 2015 2nd O/S
richsmithinbristol 22 Nov, 2015 Lead rpt P1 only to sample the new bolts!
P1 only to sample the new bolts!
Hidden 15 Nov, 2015 AltLd rpt
Caspian Johnson 15 Nov, 2015 AltLd Epic, felt surprisingly good considering I've only been bouldering for a while. Lead p1 and p3. Can't believe this gem is literally on my doorstep! Looking forward to doing more on this wall
with ollie_e
Epic, felt surprisingly good considering I've only been bouldering for a while. Lead p1 and p3. Can't believe this gem is literally on my doorstep! Looking forward to doing more on this wall
with ollie_e
Hidden 12 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S
steve_gibbs 12 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S Lead P2.
with Graham McGrath
Lead P2.
with Graham McGrath
Hidden 6 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S
Hidden 14 Jul, 2015 2nd
Luxulyan 23 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S
with Harry
with Harry
Hidden 14 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S
tobydunford 3 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S A belter, the positions and exposure are fab. Not sure about the 5c on 1st pitch. I lead second pitch, loved the rock in the main break - funky!
with Harry Martin
A belter, the positions and exposure are fab. Not sure about the 5c on 1st pitch. I lead second pitch, loved the rock in the main break - funky!
with Harry Martin
climbomaniac 16 May, 2015 Lead O/S varied and fun climbing!
varied and fun climbing!
red_rhodesha 4 May, 2015 2nd The horror. Final pitch particularly harrowing in the rain...
with ollie_e
The horror. Final pitch particularly harrowing in the rain...
with ollie_e
Hidden 4 May, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 24 Jan, 2015 AltLd O/S
Jack_F 7 Jan, 2015 Lead O/S Have been saving this for aggesss, Such a great route, fighting the bitter January cold and getting super scared on the top pitch!
with remus
Have been saving this for aggesss, Such a great route, fighting the bitter January cold and getting super scared on the top pitch!
with remus
Stuart William ??, 2015 AltLd dog Really good. Took a couple little lobs leading the 2nd pitch. Felt pretty sustained.
Really good. Took a couple little lobs leading the 2nd pitch. Felt pretty sustained.
skippington 3 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S P2.
P2.
danmullett 3 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S
brices 22 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S Amazing, such good exposure
Amazing, such good exposure
zcsharp 17 Mar, 2014 AltLd O/S Lead P2, little less gear than i thought there was gonna be but i guess its an E3 for reason.
Lead P2, little less gear than i thought there was gonna be but i guess its an E3 for reason.
Nick Russell 17 Mar, 2014 AltLd O/S Class route, great exposure, worth the hype. The rock on the last pitch is great, and that ramp at the top is quite a unique feature. All pitches are pretty bold, but nothing horrendous and technically pretty soft for 5c (I think). It was one of those deceptively cold days, very warm in the sun, so set off in just a t-shirt. Regretted this when the sun went in and wind got up, leaving me shivering at the belay ledge.
with zcsharp
Class route, great exposure, worth the hype. The rock on the last pitch is great, and that ramp at the top is quite a unique feature. All pitches are pretty bold, but nothing horrendous and technically pretty soft for 5c (I think). It was one of those deceptively cold days, very warm in the sun, so set off in just a t-shirt. Regretted this when the sun went in and wind got up, leaving me shivering at the belay ledge.
with zcsharp
Cheese Monkey 12 Oct, 2013 2nd O/S Should of lead p2! Beautiful
Should of lead p2! Beautiful
tom.e 2 Aug, 2013 AltLd O/S Led pitches 1 + 3
with Charlie Everett
Led pitches 1 + 3
with Charlie Everett
Alex Winter 4 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S Awesome. Outrageous exposure on the final pitch. Led P1 and P3.
with Neil
Awesome. Outrageous exposure on the final pitch. Led P1 and P3.
with Neil
Alice Thompson 1 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S
with Michael Porter
with Michael Porter
Hidden 1 Jun, 2013 AltLd O/S
bryan61 1 Jun, 2013 AltLd O/S great route, its got everything
with berny
great route, its got everything
with berny
jcw ??, 2013 -
BeccaSnowden 14 Oct, 2012 AltLd O/S Had previously seconded p1. Lead 1&3 - terrifying but amazing :)
Had previously seconded p1. Lead 1&3 - terrifying but amazing :)
thomasadixon 14 Oct, 2012 Lead rpt Led 2nd pitch this time - and got to watch base jumpers flying down off Main Wall from the belay. Previously did the first again when the balloon fiesta was on and saw a balloon almost hit the wall above us, scraped its way over the fence! Exciting place this cliff.
Led 2nd pitch this time - and got to watch base jumpers flying down off Main Wall from the belay. Previously did the first again when the balloon fiesta was on and saw a balloon almost hit the wall above us, scraped its way over the fence! Exciting place this cliff.
Kemics 6 Oct, 2012 AltLd O/S First E3 (Led P.2) Left to dry out as everything was soaked in the morning. Start to second pitch was a little too bold to enjoy while climbing (ring peg is proper manky) Finished chased by the darkness coming up the wall from the setting sun. One of my best climbs, was buzzing but only once i'd finally made it to the railings. Painful 2nd stance!
with dan ely
First E3 (Led P.2) Left to dry out as everything was soaked in the morning. Start to second pitch was a little too bold to enjoy while climbing (ring peg is proper manky) Finished chased by the darkness coming up the wall from the setting sun. One of my best climbs, was buzzing but only once i'd finally made it to the railings. Painful 2nd stance!
with dan ely
dan ely 6 Oct, 2012 Lead O/S
with Kemics
with Kemics
cem 6 Sep, 2012 AltLd O/S Led p2
Led p2
Dean Russell 5 Sep, 2012 AltLd O/S
drcorbasisgod ?Sep, 2012 AltLd O/S
with cem
with cem
Pete Rigby 30 Jul, 2012 AltLd rpt
with Gary
with Gary
Garrouli 30 Jul, 2012 Lead O/S
with Northern Pete
with Northern Pete
yan hawkins 28 Jun, 2012 AltLd O/S
with Donald 'Big Boy' Birchall
with Donald 'Big Boy' Birchall
Hidden 20 Jun, 2012 AltLd O/S
Stanners 20 Jun, 2012 AltLd O/S With one man down the day wasn't looking promising. Getting on this changed all that though. Very Very good route, not as bold as I was expecting. The first pitch is a harsh warm-up. Lead Pitch 2 and glad I did. A chapter over in my avon gorge career..
With one man down the day wasn't looking promising. Getting on this changed all that though. Very Very good route, not as bold as I was expecting. The first pitch is a harsh warm-up. Lead Pitch 2 and glad I did. A chapter over in my avon gorge career..
Mark Stevenson 9 Jun, 2012 AltLd O/S
eddy-on-the-rocks 9 Jun, 2012 AltLd O/S P1 and P3. Deep breathing required for the runout top pitch, but it is way steady and has islands of bomber gear. A good experience.
with Mark
P1 and P3. Deep breathing required for the runout top pitch, but it is way steady and has islands of bomber gear. A good experience.
with Mark
John Southworth 18 Mar, 2012 AltLd O/S Led P1 and P3. Very, very good.
Led P1 and P3. Very, very good.
richsmithinbristol 18 Mar, 2012 AltLd rpt P.2 led
P.2 led
James Marshall ?Mar, 2012 Lead rpt I lead P2 & 3, P1 is way harder than these and has an intimidating start.
with Pete Shepherd
I lead P2 & 3, P1 is way harder than these and has an intimidating start.
with Pete Shepherd
mikeshewring 26 Feb, 2012 AltLd P1 & 3
P1 & 3
DorsetGareth 7 Jan, 2012 AltLd O/S Lead second pitch. Great route.
with thomb
Lead second pitch. Great route.
with thomb
thomb 7 Jan, 2012 AltLd O/S Awesome route. Led P1 & P3. Airy but brilliant finish.
with Gareth
Awesome route. Led P1 & P3. Airy but brilliant finish.
with Gareth
Pippa ?Jan, 2012 AltLd
Sophie Nunn 13 Nov, 2011 AltLd O/S
Toby Dunn 13 Nov, 2011 AltLd Pleasant, exposed, somewhat crusty climbing. Challenging but not technically difficult anywhere.
with Sophie Nunn
Pleasant, exposed, somewhat crusty climbing. Challenging but not technically difficult anywhere.
with Sophie Nunn
Justin T 21 Oct, 2011 AltLd P2, gibbering slightly.
P2, gibbering slightly.
Hidden 21 Oct, 2011 AltLd O/S
John Mcshea 21 Oct, 2011 AltLd rpt
stephenhartley 3 Oct, 2011 2nd
thomasadixon 12 Sep, 2011 AltLd O/S Pure class. Top pitch a very different experience to the rest of Avon, very strange (and good) rock on this wall.
Pure class. Top pitch a very different experience to the rest of Avon, very strange (and good) rock on this wall.
Misha 7 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S What a brilliant route! It had rained earlier in the day and we could see some wet patches above the second borehole on P1 but decided to give it a go anyway. The sun was blazing as I set off on P1, which proved to be bold and tricky in places and fairly sustained overall. Started raining fairly hard just after I got to the bolted belay - a good second by Phil as most of the good holds were wet! By the time we had swapped the gear, it had stopped raining and the rock on P2 had mostly dried out, so Phil carried on. Started raining again as Phil was finishing the pitch but it stopped by the time I started seconding P2, which was pretty sustained and had lots of good climbing on increasingly interesting rock. I got P3, which was a refugee from Gogarth Red Wall with weird, funky rock that was mostly fairly straightforward but required a considered approach. Fantastic exposure moving up and left from the pancake gargoyle and peg. Topped out for an ice cream, then abbed down in two abs (the tat at the top could do with replacing soon) and got soaked in the process. Lots of blackberries at the bottom. Took up three and a half hours to the top.
What a brilliant route! It had rained earlier in the day and we could see some wet patches above the second borehole on P1 but decided to give it a go anyway. The sun was blazing as I set off on P1, which proved to be bold and tricky in places and fairly sustained overall. Started raining fairly hard just after I got to the bolted belay - a good second by Phil as most of the good holds were wet! By the time we had swapped the gear, it had stopped raining and the rock on P2 had mostly dried out, so Phil carried on. Started raining again as Phil was finishing the pitch but it stopped by the time I started seconding P2, which was pretty sustained and had lots of good climbing on increasingly interesting rock. I got P3, which was a refugee from Gogarth Red Wall with weird, funky rock that was mostly fairly straightforward but required a considered approach. Fantastic exposure moving up and left from the pancake gargoyle and peg. Topped out for an ice cream, then abbed down in two abs (the tat at the top could do with replacing soon) and got soaked in the process. Lots of blackberries at the bottom. Took up three and a half hours to the top.
philhilo 7 Aug, 2011 AltLd dog Wet day so had a look at Avon. Wet rock so had a look at Exploding Galaxy wall. P1 v bold and technical at the crux. Good lead from Misha, 2nd in the rain, sliiipy. watched the rain from 1st belay and then lead P2 but had to rest after going wrong way at the mantle shelf - so annoyed! Top pitch excellentspace walking. Ice cream top out and abbed back down in a final down pour.
with Misha
Wet day so had a look at Avon. Wet rock so had a look at Exploding Galaxy wall. P1 v bold and technical at the crux. Good lead from Misha, 2nd in the rain, sliiipy. watched the rain from 1st belay and then lead P2 but had to rest after going wrong way at the mantle shelf - so annoyed! Top pitch excellentspace walking. Ice cream top out and abbed back down in a final down pour.
with Misha
pezzerrr 27 Jul, 2011 AltLd O/S
ajtay 15 May, 2011 Lead O/S Brilliant brilliant brilliant. 5b,5c,5b I reckon.
with RachelP
Brilliant brilliant brilliant. 5b,5c,5b I reckon.
with RachelP
RachelP 15 May, 2011 2nd 1st pitch amazing, 2nd pitch pulled on gear, 3rd pitch too tired to remember but Andy said he thought it was brilliant...must have been good!
with ajtay
1st pitch amazing, 2nd pitch pulled on gear, 3rd pitch too tired to remember but Andy said he thought it was brilliant...must have been good!
with ajtay
hutster781 11 Apr, 2011 TR dog unsteady climbing .first hard climb this year used as a gauge to my ability after a very slow year due to illness
with shunt, new rope
unsteady climbing .first hard climb this year used as a gauge to my ability after a very slow year due to illness
with shunt, new rope
hutster781 8 Apr, 2011 TR dog unsteady climbing but enjoyed it - good to be out again
with shunt, new rope
unsteady climbing but enjoyed it - good to be out again
with shunt, new rope
Ross Davidson 26 Mar, 2011 AltLd O/S Awesome climb. Probably the best i've done in Avon. Lead P1 and P3
Awesome climb. Probably the best i've done in Avon. Lead P1 and P3
Hidden 23 Mar, 2011 AltLd rpt
Harry Kingston ?Mar, 2011 AltLd O/S Loved the hanging belay, brilliant!
Loved the hanging belay, brilliant!
Aaron Lines ?Nov, 2010 AltLd O/S led p1&3
with frank
led p1&3
with frank
hutster781 15 Sep, 2010 TR β no probs
with shunt, new rope
no probs
with shunt, new rope
hutster781 4 Sep, 2010 TR β
with shunt
with shunt
RagingPuffin 1 Sep, 2010 AltLd O/S led the relatively easy middle pitch. brilliant.
with Raph, sophie
led the relatively easy middle pitch. brilliant.
with Raph, sophie
hutster781 31 Aug, 2010 TR β
with shunt
with shunt
hutster781 29 Aug, 2010 TR β the whole route this time. lower pitch is ledgy /flakey/dusty. no individual hard sections, just fairly spaced gear
with shunt
the whole route this time. lower pitch is ledgy /flakey/dusty. no individual hard sections, just fairly spaced gear
with shunt
hutster781 22 Aug, 2010 TR O/S p1 and p2
with grigri
p1 and p2
with grigri
Richard Hall 27 Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S No guidebook and a single rope folded in half which was too short. EPIC.
with Keith Bradbury
No guidebook and a single rope folded in half which was too short. EPIC.
with Keith Bradbury
Hidden 8 Jul, 2010 AltLd O/S
KRB 30 Jun, 2010 Lead rpt A good route to test the repair of my broken bones and ligaments. Had to do it over 2 days as we ran out of time to pick Ollie up from school after the 2nd pitch. A brilliant route with exposure and hanging belays ideal for anyone wanting to take their first steps into adventure.
with Martin Bridges
A good route to test the repair of my broken bones and ligaments. Had to do it over 2 days as we ran out of time to pick Ollie up from school after the 2nd pitch. A brilliant route with exposure and hanging belays ideal for anyone wanting to take their first steps into adventure.
with Martin Bridges
richiebongo 18 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S
AlexRenshaw 9 May, 2010 Lead
with Ted Lister, Thomas Renshaw
with Ted Lister, Thomas Renshaw
ericinbristol 20 Apr, 2010 AltLd O/S Fantastic, unusual and classic. 5c, 5b, 5b. I led P2.
with Barry Durston
Fantastic, unusual and classic. 5c, 5b, 5b. I led P2.
with Barry Durston
Ed Babs 4 Apr, 2010 Lead O/S Superb. We combined pitches 2 + 3 in 1 big pitch - it may be better to take the belay in between to avoid getting pumped out of your mind some distance from your last gear on the final left trending ramp! We got down in two abs - from in situ gear on the tree at the top and from the double bolt belay ledge at the end of pitch 1.
with Mike Hawkins
Superb. We combined pitches 2 + 3 in 1 big pitch - it may be better to take the belay in between to avoid getting pumped out of your mind some distance from your last gear on the final left trending ramp! We got down in two abs - from in situ gear on the tree at the top and from the double bolt belay ledge at the end of pitch 1.
with Mike Hawkins
Bristoldave 2 Mar, 2010 AltLd O/S Led P1&3
with heallan
Led P1&3
with heallan
Hidden 2 Mar, 2010 Lead O/S
Phil PBC ??, 2010 -
Hidden 2 Aug, 2009 Lead O/S
James Marshall 22 Jul, 2009 2nd
Chubbard 18 Jul, 2009 Lead O/S Brilliant. 4 stars. Combined p2 and p3.
with JimR
Brilliant. 4 stars. Combined p2 and p3.
with JimR
JimR 18 Jul, 2009 -
with Charles H
with Charles H
just one more 28 May, 2009 Lead rpt
with tim b
with tim b
Hidden 21 May, 2009 AltLd
billb ?May, 2009 AltLd O/S
richsmithinbristol ?May, 2009 AltLd
with billb
with billb
Hidden ??, 2009 Lead O/S
lukehodson 7 Dec, 2008 AltLd O/S Lead pitch 2. Great route, wild exposure on the top pitch
with Howard
Lead pitch 2. Great route, wild exposure on the top pitch
with Howard
Hidden 1 Oct, 2008 Lead G/U
Hidden 29 Aug, 2008 Lead O/S
Paz 29 Aug, 2008 AltLd rpt Lead P1 (4 runners) & P3 (~11 runners)
Lead P1 (4 runners) & P3 (~11 runners)
richgac 22 Jul, 2008 AltLd O/S Lead p1 and 3. Great fun for a date!
with Charlie
Lead p1 and 3. Great fun for a date!
with Charlie
Tom Heslam ??, 2008 AltLd O/S Finished just into the dark with Rosea. Awesome.
Finished just into the dark with Rosea. Awesome.
Hidden 13 Jul, 2007 Lead dnf
Hidden 21 Jun, 2007 AltLd rpt
Hidden 1 Feb, 2007 Lead O/S
haydng ??, 2007 AltLd O/S
with Rob
with Rob
waltersp ?Dec, 2006 2nd O/S
with Nick
with Nick
simonf ?Nov, 2006 AltLd dog Lead 2nd pitch; brief rest before the mantle shelf
with Simon + Chris
Lead 2nd pitch; brief rest before the mantle shelf
with Simon + Chris
Paz 9 Sep, 2006 AltLd rpt Lead P3 for the second time, just safe steady runout E3 climbing.
with MH
Lead P3 for the second time, just safe steady runout E3 climbing.
with MH
KRB 13 Jul, 2006 Lead rpt Washed away in a torrential downpour in 2003. Revisited for the last climb of the day one evening after work. Finished in virtual darkness at 10:30pm.
with Chris Bridges
Washed away in a torrential downpour in 2003. Revisited for the last climb of the day one evening after work. Finished in virtual darkness at 10:30pm.
with Chris Bridges
Bux 12 Jul, 2006 AltLd O/S Led 2nd pitch.
with Nick
Led 2nd pitch.
with Nick
Paz 4 Mar, 2006 AltLd rpt Lead P2, which is probably why I think of this as easy E3 - I've only lead the top pitch once.
with RJ
Lead P2, which is probably why I think of this as easy E3 - I've only lead the top pitch once.
with RJ
Tom Heslam ??, 2006 2nd
with Ed Heslam
with Ed Heslam
Jo McCready ??, 2006 -
Marti999 ??, 2006 AltLd
Kev Little ??, 2006 AltLd
Hidden ??, 2006 -
Paz 31 May, 2005 AltLd rpt
Hidden 31 May, 2005 AltLd
joe_alexander 31 Jan, 2005 2nd dog
with Nick Gillette
with Nick Gillette
phsharpy ??, 2005 Lead rpt
with Simon Kimber
with Simon Kimber
Mark Davies PK ?Jul, 2004 Lead O/S
with Jack G
with Jack G
Ally Smith 19 May, 2004 AltLd
with Paz
with Paz
Paz 19 May, 2004 AltLd rpt lead P2.
lead P2.
Hidden 14 Apr, 2004 2nd O/S
Ally Smith ?Jan, 2004 AltLd
with Paz
with Paz
Paz ?Jan, 2004 AltLd rpt
Steve Claw ??, 2004 - Did this back is 2004, seconded after a hard night out during the student days. I remember nearly passing out on the hanging stance, then sweating out the top pitch.
Did this back is 2004, seconded after a hard night out during the student days. I remember nearly passing out on the hanging stance, then sweating out the top pitch.
Hidden ??, 2004 Lead O/S
dan gibson ??, 2004 -
with anthony prior
with anthony prior
cornishben ??, 2004 2nd O/S
with Mike Raine
with Mike Raine
Ally Smith ??, 2004 -
with Paz
with Paz
Hidden 21 Nov, 2003 Lead O/S
_m.cox_ ?Aug, 2003 Lead O/S
with Adam Mulholland
with Adam Mulholland
Paz 2 Jul, 2003 AltLd O/S Lead P1 and P3 (waited at the ramp for a heavy shower to pass).
with TC
Lead P1 and P3 (waited at the ramp for a heavy shower to pass).
with TC
Hidden 11 Jun, 2003 Lead O/S
Hidden 9 Apr, 2001 Lead rpt
Hidden 26 Aug, 2000 AltLd O/S
Billg ?Jul, 2000 Lead O/S
with Harry
with Harry
Tim M ??, 2000 Lead O/S
migs493 28 Mar, 1999 AltLd O/S Lead first & third pitch
Lead first & third pitch
guy xavier percival ??, 1999 -
crimpaway ??, 1999 Lead
DavidBarraclough ??, 1999 Lead O/S
AlexRenshaw 4 Jun, 1998 Lead
with Ted Lister
with Ted Lister
Dave Musgrove Jnr 12 Sep, 1996 AltLd
with Al Willoner
with Al Willoner
AlexRenshaw 16 May, 1996 -
with Simon Donowho
with Simon Donowho
lowersharpnose 7 Jul, 1994 Lead O/S I lead all the pitches and Adam climbed in his pants.
with Adam
I lead all the pitches and Adam climbed in his pants.
with Adam
GAtkins 29 Jun, 1994 Lead O/S
chris sm 29 Mar, 1994 2nd dnf
Hidden 11 Jul, 1993 Lead
steveb2006 20 Mar, 1993 Lead
with Ian Cartwright
with Ian Cartwright
AndySL ??, 1993 2nd O/S
with Tim
with Tim
Roget 13 Nov, 1992 Lead O/S
with mark turnbull
with mark turnbull
Neil McA 12 Sep, 1992 AltLd O/S led pitch 2
with Beak 2
led pitch 2
with Beak 2
AlexRenshaw 2 Apr, 1992 Lead
with Ted Lister
with Ted Lister
clanger ??, 1991 -
with Ghazala
with Ghazala
Pete Ogden ??, 1990 AltLd
with Mark Worsley
with Mark Worsley
charlesmfrench 1 Oct, 1989 AltLd O/S L,2,L.
with Andy Tallent
L,2,L.
with Andy Tallent
steveb2006 24 Sep, 1989 Lead Superb long route
with Simon Mee
Superb long route
with Simon Mee
Hidden ??, 1989 -
frank ramsay ?Jul, 1988 Solo Soloed having lead it the year before. Wobbly hold on the last move!
Soloed having lead it the year before. Wobbly hold on the last move!
Hidden 11 Apr, 1988 AltLd O/S
Adrian Gostick ??, 1987 AltLd led pitches 1 and 3
led pitches 1 and 3
John H Bull (tcfka Bullybones) ??, 1987 Lead
DDDD ??, 1987 -
Hidden ?Jul, 1986 Lead O/S
Johnny Baker ??, 1986 -
with Pete Ollis
with Pete Ollis
William Robertson ??, 1986 Lead O/S
with Emily
with Emily
AlexRenshaw 10 Oct, 1985 Lead
with jcw
with jcw
Ena ?Jun, 1985 Lead dnf Ug.
with Mark Courtiour
Ug.
with Mark Courtiour
pete johnson ??, 1985 -
duncan ?Sep, 1984 Solo rpt With direct finish from the start of the ramp (this bit was new to me).
With direct finish from the start of the ramp (this bit was new to me).
Steve Clegg 29 Apr, 1984 AltLd
with Stu C
with Stu C
andy gittins ??, 1983 -
stp 20 Apr, 1982 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 1982 AltLd O/S
duncan ?Aug, 1981 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??, 1981 -
Steve Bell ??, 1981 -
barny ??, 1981 AltLd O/S pete lead p1, I did P2/3 - we waltzed up it, both very fit, fantastic position on the final pitch :-)
with Pete Sutton
pete lead p1, I did P2/3 - we waltzed up it, both very fit, fantastic position on the final pitch :-)
with Pete Sutton
Chris Terrey ?Jun, 1980 2nd dnf
with Brian Wyvill
with Brian Wyvill
Steve Lewis 15 Sep, 1979 Lead O/S
with Haydn Griffiths
with Haydn Griffiths
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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 48
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 47
Votes cast 49
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set