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Climb the front of the buttress left of Shagrat past a peg runner to a good pocket (large cam). Swing left (weak thread, and peg above) and continue up past an undercut/layaway block to an easier finish through the roofs.

The guide describes the first roof as the crux, and the first peg is a recent addition.

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden 16 May Lead O/S
Steve Claw 17 Mar TR 2 x rests to work out where the holds are. Did all the moves
2 x rests to work out where the holds are. Did all the moves
afrosam 14 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S Nice thuggy moves, good gear, bit soft. Sweet!
with Matt
Nice thuggy moves, good gear, bit soft. Sweet!
with Matt
WillAndrew 4 Feb, 2017 Lead RP Climbed it once clean on toprope to scope out the moves/gear then went for the lead. First (probably just E4) E5 in the bag!
Climbed it once clean on toprope to scope out the moves/gear then went for the lead. First (probably just E4) E5 in the bag!
Hidden 27 Dec, 2016 TR dog
Stanners 27 Dec, 2016 TR O/S Pleased to have got this onsight (toprope!) with zero feeling in my fingers. Felt pretty straight forward, excellent climbing with enough gear by the looks of things. Did the obvious start up the flake giving a soft E4 6a** or top end E3 5c**. F6c ish. Will be sure to come back and redpoint
with Mark davies, Martin Stanfield, Quarryboy
Pleased to have got this onsight (toprope!) with zero feeling in my fingers. Felt pretty straight forward, excellent climbing with enough gear by the looks of things. Did the obvious start up the flake giving a soft E4 6a** or top end E3 5c**. F6c ish. Will be sure to come back and redpoint
with Mark davies, Martin Stanfield, Quarryboy
tobydunford 1 Sep, 2016 Lead RP
with Kirsty Kerr
with Kirsty Kerr
Hidden 26 Jun, 2016 Lead β
grp 25 Apr, 2016 Lead RP Great route and good climbing just need some small cams and a big one so doesn't feel e5 really. I climbed it in not the best style. Fell on the first overlap pulled the ropes and left the gear in for the initial easy slab section. Went from the ground on the second go I even simulated placing the gear up the easy start in an attempt to keep James quiet. But I'm sure he'll still slate me for it. Well done for the flash James My favourite route at goblin!!
Great route and good climbing just need some small cams and a big one so doesn't feel e5 really. I climbed it in not the best style. Fell on the first overlap pulled the ropes and left the gear in for the initial easy slab section. Went from the ground on the second go I even simulated placing the gear up the easy start in an attempt to keep James quiet. But I'm sure he'll still slate me for it. Well done for the flash James My favourite route at goblin!!
James Smith 25 Apr, 2016 Lead β
with geoff
with geoff
grp 5 Feb, 2015 Lead dog fell towards the top onto the higher peg then continued to the top. my second then had the peg slide out as he was taking the draw out.
fell towards the top onto the higher peg then continued to the top. my second then had the peg slide out as he was taking the draw out.
Dan0Me 4 Jul, 2014 TR
with Geoff P
with Geoff P
RichyBOYY 4 Mar, 2014 TR O/S
climbergg 1 Apr, 2012 2nd
with Tim M
with Tim M
Tim M 1 Apr, 2012 Lead dog Climbed this several times over the years, starting to the right of the first peg (to avoid the true start) makes an excellent steep E3 5c **. Although the guide says something about not much gear, you can pretty much lace it up. Today however I dogged it!
Climbed this several times over the years, starting to the right of the first peg (to avoid the true start) makes an excellent steep E3 5c **. Although the guide says something about not much gear, you can pretty much lace it up. Today however I dogged it!
adam cooper*super* 18 Aug, 2010 2nd O/S really good, still stick to E4 though
with Jack_F
really good, still stick to E4 though
with Jack_F
Jack_F 18 Aug, 2010 Lead O/S Brilliant route got death pump at the top and thought it was game over. thank god for a lucky ass foothold i managed to stick!
Brilliant route got death pump at the top and thought it was game over. thank god for a lucky ass foothold i managed to stick!
T ny ??, 2010 -
guy xavier percival 8 Jun, 2008 Lead RP
with paul
with paul
Paul Robertson 8 Jun, 2008 2nd rpt Avoided the first roof by climbing up just right of the peg.
Avoided the first roof by climbing up just right of the peg.
Paul Robertson 22 Jun, 2006 Lead dog Strength and confidence ebbed away below the (easy) top roof
with Ben Friedland
Strength and confidence ebbed away below the (easy) top roof
with Ben Friedland
Billg 15 Oct, 2000 Lead O/S
with Harry
with Harry
Tim M ??, 2000 Lead O/S
3 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 7
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 5
Votes cast 5
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Redpoint
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest

Low Profile

Grade: E5 6b ***
(Avon Gorge (Sea Walls Area))