Climbs 148
Rocktype Limestone
Altitude 194m a.s.l
Faces all
Mark Pretty onsighting Crustacean - 7a+, Goddard's Quarry, Stoney Middleton. © stp
Crag features
This is the huge open quarry on the other side of the road from the main Stoney crag. A series of different walls provide reasonable spread of well bolted, short and long, sport climbs at different parts of the quarry. Rock quality in most sectors is good though care should be taken on the big 15 Steps wall and it's sensible to wear a helmet and don't stand directly under a climber while belaying.
Some of the walls face northward and receive no sun until evening, but the aptly named Sunshine Wall faces south, as does much of the Upper Tier. Stoat Wall gets sun from mid-afternoon.
Most of the development is fairly recent. However the most up to date route information can be found here and topos for most sectors can be found on the Rockfax app and at sportclimbs.uk.
Thanks to sportclimbs.uk for providing much of the original information here.
Approach notes
Park at the main Stoney car park. Walk up the dale about 50m and cross over a stile opposite the garage. Walk up the track and the Crustacean Wall soon appears at the top of the track.
Restricted Access
No permission has been granted by the landowner for climbing access to this quarry.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 6 April to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
2024 - there is a seasonal restriction this year covering Sunshine Wall and the Upper Tier. Please do not enter this western end of the quarry.
| Seems to be an access issue - asked to leave on June 10th.
A company have a years contract to "renovate" the quarry. BMC informed and are looking into the matter uphillnow - 11/Jun/15 |
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| Climbed at the 'sunshine' wall on a rather grey and windy day - however this wall seems quite sheltered. Good set of routes worth a visit once they ve cleaned up. najki_2000 - 17/May/15 |
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| A great addition to Stoney bolted routes. The lower section 'Crustaceans Wall' has several excellent 2 * routes or at least they will be when it dries out a bit and cleans up. The plantation area further up still needs to be logged on UKC but is another great sector. There is a third sector at the top end of the quarry which I guess has still to be revealed, looks like a bunch of 6's on decent rock. All in all a great set of routes. The plantation area grades will probably get a bit of adjusting as we almost on-sited two 7A's which doesn't happen! Probably 6c/6c+. sishaw - 19/Apr/15 |
Climbs at this crag
| Name | Grade | Stars | Type | Logs | Partner Ascents |
|---|
These climbs you have climbed by seconding or top-roping.
These climbs you have Dogged.
These climbs you Did not Finish.
Climbs are waiting to be checked by a crag moderator, and may not be accurate. Climbs can't be verified by a crag moderator, and they need more information to confirm it. Climbs are no longer climbable.
Moderators Updates to this page are checked by UKC volunteers stp and TobyA