UKC

15m. New direct line between Where Silence Has Lease and
Wedding Daze tackling the final wall directly.

Pleasant climbing to a hands off rest near the top which goes at about 6a/6a+ (lower off in place, called The Dorset Perrito), before using a big undercut to get established on the final short wall. A tricky move to reach two very small crimps and then a stiff pull and reach to hit the final crimp rail. Proposed grade is 7a based on Darth Grader, 6a/6a+ route into a good rest then a F6A+/F6B Boulder.

Wayne Gaudin 09/Aug/2025.

* This newly updated climb is waiting to be checked by the crag moderator.

Ticklists

Portland NEW SPORT Routes since Rockfax Guide 2021 , Sportland 2025

Feedback

User Date Notes
P Wheeler 24 Aug Show βeta
βeta: Did this a few days after the first accentionists had finished...nice route....one worrying bolt in a cube of stone?? Maybe it's OK but it didn't look it.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Did this a few days after the first accentionists had finished...nice route....one worrying bolt in a cube of stone?? Maybe it's OK but it didn't look it.

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Voting
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
Votes cast 2
Votes cast 2
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Redpoint
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Repeated
Route of Interest
Superfly Guy

Grade: 7a ***
(Coastguard North)

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