Rockfax Description
A quality pitch. Climb up and then left, past some good pockets to a large hold below the upper wall. Make some difficult moves to a slim groove. Follow this, and the wall to its right, to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Unconfirmed report of hold loss between 3rd and 4th bolt, possible now harder than 7a.

FA. Pete Oxley 8.8.88 08/Aug/1988

Ticklists: A Guide for Progress in Dorset, West Country Climbs, 3 Star Portland, ROCKFAX Dorset 2012: Graded Sport List, South coast sport/DWS ticklist, Classic Portland 7as (2* +), Jurassic 7a, Nat's Summer 2016 Ticklist, Portland, Portland 15 (7's), Spanish crew 2018.

Hidden 20/May Lead dnf
Hidden 19/May Lead RP
Jonathan Emett 19/May Lead RP

Second go, pretty soggy

nacnud 12/May Lead RP
DanWeiss 10/May Lead β
with Ed Babs
AJM 10/May Lead O/S

Very nice

with Dan W, samparsons, Ed Babs
dryvita 08/May Lead RP

Very cool! Matt did boulder beta - long move off two finger pocket, i went right to wide crimp. Thin but steady climbing to the chains

with Matt Broughton
marcduhig 06/May Lead dog

Fell off after all the hard work. Long Pumpy mid section.

with chancer
Carnie Lisa 06/May 2nd RP
with Dan Verge
Dandan82 06/May Lead rpt
Hidden 05/May Lead RP
chancer 05/May Lead dog
with Marc Duhig
john1 21/Apr TR dog

got all the moves just need do it in one go for the lead

Dan Browne 21/Apr TR dog

bloody hard! got all the moves, need to work on stamina

with john1
Hidden 23/Sep/17 2nd dog
GrahamGiles 23/Sep/17 Lead rpt
Carnie Lisa 27/Aug/17 2nd dog

1 rest today, moves sorted!

with Dan Verge
emmafizzle 16/Aug/17 Lead RP
Linc 13/Aug/17 Lead RP
emmafizzle 12/Aug/17 Lead dnf


ricci.andrea86 05/Aug/17 Lead O/S
Dandan82 05/Aug/17 Lead rpt
S.Kew 05/Aug/17 Lead O/S
Dandan82 15/Jul/17 Lead O/S
Carnie Lisa 15/Jul/17 2nd dog
with Dan Verge
chris_woodsy 14/Jul/17 Lead rpt
with Widda
Widda 14/Jul/17 2nd dog

fell off at the top crux. pulled straight on and got to the top.

katy_abra 10/Jul/17 Lead RP
Widda 15/Jun/17 Lead dnf

Got scared. Up- and down-climbed between bolts 2 and 3 loads of times. Tired myself out.

AlexRenshaw 10/Jun/17 Lead
SaraAlassam 10/Jun/17 Lead dog

2 attempts, really fun, one to come back to.

tobydunford 10/Jun/17 Lead O/S
with Oli
chris_woodsy 03/Jun/17 Lead β
with Widda
Widda 03/Jun/17 2nd dog

really good route and easier than lost in rock.. less technical anyway. 1 unintentional RP: fell going to put LH in pocket. rested for quite a long time, got back on and got to the top clean from there.

Hidden 03/Jun/17 TR rpt
penny.orr 15/Apr/17 2nd O/S
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 15/Apr/17 Lead O/S

Felt easier than Nothing but the Groove, but that could have been because I was warm and the route was dry

Aaron.Clifford 15/Apr/17 Lead RP
GrahamGiles 15/Apr/17 2nd β

Excellent route. Had some good beta otherwise would have wrong handed myself.

Matti Puckridge 02/Apr/17 Lead RP
Ellis Bird ??/2017 Lead
Ian MK 30/Oct/16 Lead RP

First UK 7, second go. Great route :-)

Alex N-R 23/Oct/16 Lead O/S


with Charlie
Mark Stevenson 15/Sep/16 2nd dog
Binigo 29/Aug/16 Lead RP
Hidden 13/Aug/16 TR
julesmckim 08/Aug/16 Lead dog

Hard work. Agree with the old grade of 7a+. Rested on the lower wall, couldn't work out the move. Then a wild slap for the jug at the base of the groove. Quality easy climbing above. One to come back to for the redpoint

with Rob Smart
kingborris 07/Aug/16 Lead RP

First 7a redpoint. 3 tries across 2 sessions them the clean lead. Great route.

with Rob
Hidden 25/Jul/16 Lead
Hidden 25/Jul/16 Lead RP
Hidden 25/Jul/16 Lead dog
dbrooks 27/May/16 Lead RP

2nd RP, great route

with Stu
Stroppy 14/May/16 Lead dog

Just couldn't get that crux move without clipsticking the bolt above. Head game obviously still very poor!

with Little Lucy
Hidden 19/Mar/16 Lead RP
Hidden 19/Mar/16 Lead RP
Hidden 19/Mar/16 Lead RP
Jmizio 17/Feb/16 -
Hidden ??/2016 -
lawsy_boy1 25/Oct/15 Lead
Matt.c.Warner 17/Oct/15 Lead RP
with Emily
richiebongo 03/Oct/15 Lead O/S
with Nick Smith
philhaigh 08/Aug/15 Lead rpt
with Mike Gubbins, Shamina Kapadia, Barry Kerslake, Mike Hawkins, Jane Weir, Gem Minihan, nataliehaigh
ThomasB ?/Aug/15 Lead O/S
chris_woodsy 18/Jul/15 Lead RP
pezzerrr 05/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Rockmonkey1977 05/Jul/15 Lead RP

Second go, lose points as I already had the rope through the 3rd QD after my first attempt though... Varied route, very nice

tonevert 21/Jun/15 Lead dog
with Kevin Faux
Kevster 21/Jun/15 Lead O/S
RichyBOYY 18/Jun/15 Lead RP

Really sick route - sustained technical climbing, was pretty pumpe too - well enjoyed it

with Benzo
Hidden 13/Jun/15 Lead β
Coops_13 13/Jun/15 Lead RP
with fildac, JayK
Owen Diba ?/Jun/15 TR
afrosam 30/May/15 Lead RP
Trisha Murphy 30/May/15 2nd
with afrosam
tombrol 30/May/15 Lead RP
with Pawel Kedzierski
samparsons 25/May/15 Lead G/U

Finally!!! That has to be one of my favourite climbs just so good from the bottom to the top. First tried 25 Jun 2014

Hidden 24/May/15 Lead RP
professorcobra 24/May/15 Lead RP
Hidden 03/May/15 Lead β
ASchwirtz 18/Apr/15 Lead RP
richardashe 18/Apr/15 2nd
La Mont 18/Apr/15 Lead rpt
with James Doc
Fraser hill-casey 17/Apr/15 Lead
RadekNowak 27/Sep/14 Lead RP
Ian Bell 27/Sep/14 TR dog

Quick go on someone's else's tr. nice, powerful at the bottom

with Jasmina
Jane Weir 07/Sep/14 Lead

Still fair at 7a.

with gubbins
duncan 28/Aug/14 Lead β

Flash after watching Conor. Felt steady.

Hidden 28/Aug/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 09/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Aug/14 Lead β
jacobjacob 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S

The best 6b+ on Portland!

philhaigh 29/Jul/14 Lead rpt
with Shamina Kapadia
Hidden 26/Jul/14 Lead RP
philhaigh 23/Jul/14 Lead rpt
with Aarron Schofield, Steve Hau, Shamina Kapadia, Barry Kerslake, Gem Minihan
Hidden 29/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Jun/14 Lead RP
pymn nice but dim 26/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Amazing route, tough to read but cool positions. My second 7a on sight. gotta keep this pattern up!

philhaigh 25/Jun/14 Lead rpt
with AlexD, Vicki Hau, nataliehaigh
AlexD 25/Jun/14 Lead RP
with philhaigh, nataliehaigh, Vicky
Pete Scott 25/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Lots of chalk on it so felt fairly easy to onsight.

Hidden 22/Jun/14 2nd dog
philhaigh 22/Jun/14 Lead rpt
with Aarron Schofield, phattnoodle, Vicki Hau, Mike Gubbins, Shamina Kapadia, Barry Kerslake, Jane Weir, melD, EddyYoung, Murray Freestone, nataliehaigh
drcorbasisgod 18/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Barry Kerslake 16/Jun/14 Lead RP
with Shamina Kapadia, Phil Haigh, Mike G
Julie Carroll 16/Jun/14 Lead RP

Felt hard, more like 7a+. Loved it though, some great moves higher up after those hard pockets!

with Dan Gibson
philhaigh 16/Jun/14 Lead rpt
with Mike Gubbins, Shamina Kapadia, Barry Kerslake
jonleighton 15/Jun/14 Lead rpt
quiffhanger 15/Jun/14 Lead RP

Too hard for a warmup, especially when wet. Fell off. 2nd go.

philhaigh 13/Jun/14 2nd dog
with Aarron Schofield, Mike Gubbins, Shamina Kapadia, melD, nataliehaigh
Hidden 13/Jun/14 2nd dog
Hidden ?/May/14 Lead RP
Beefy Bert ??/2014 Lead RP
richardashe 17/Oct/13 Lead RP

Got it clean after dropping the first and second (stupidly forgot the heal hook to transition into the pocket) attempt. Shoudl have had in two. Good climb!

Graham Westbrook 17/Oct/13 Lead RP

Dropped the onsight but got it 2nd go.

tiffanykate12 06/Oct/13 2nd dog
mrteale 27/Sep/13 Lead RP
mark20 03/Sep/13 Lead O/S
john rensten 01/Sep/13 Lead RP
with Neal Jobling, Dom
BenL 26/Aug/13 Lead RP
with Angus Webb
Viki Claudia Harvey 11/Aug/13 Lead RP
with Rachel Keys
jonleighton 10/Aug/13 Lead RP

Tried to onsight but fell early on so lowered off and then did it clean, but got very very pumped trying to work it out!

Hidden 01/Aug/13 Lead RP
philhaigh 06/Jul/13 2nd rpt
with Mat Affourtit, phattnoodle, Mike Gubbins, Murray Freestone, Gem Minihan
philhaigh 30/Jun/13 Lead RP
with Mat Affourtit, Barry Kerslake, nataliehaigh
Hidden 02/Jun/13 2nd β
Billg 02/Jun/13 Lead O/S

All holds are fine - soft 7a if you find the good crimp just before the upper groove

Hidden ?/May/13 Lead
Tommyads ??/2013 -
Hidden 12/Aug/12 Lead RP
Hidden 15/Jul/12 Lead O/S
dan gibson 05/Jul/12 Lead RP
with julie carroll
Adam Booth 22/Jun/12 Lead RP

3rd RP

Garrouli 01/Jun/12 Lead RP
with Jak
_m.cox_ 01/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Prajak
Hidden 31/May/12 Lead RP
tom106 31/May/12 Lead O/S

7a max - really good!

brices 07/Apr/12 Lead O/S

th emost ridculous method used to onsight it, then tom crused it using a hold i didnt see

Tom Heslam 07/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Si Brice
Hidden 24/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Mar/12 TR β
dannyboy83 14/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Very nice 7a

with Martyn
katiep 14/Mar/12 TR dog
with Tom Taylor
phillipwright ??/2012 Lead dog
with James Kingswood
AlexD 23/Oct/11 Lead dnf
Sophie Nunn 23/Oct/11 Lead dnf
with AlexD
Toby Dunn 23/Oct/11 Lead O/S
with Jon Emmet
Luke Dawson ?/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Apr/11 Lead β
Hidden 09/Apr/11 TR dog
Julian Cooper 19/Aug/10 Lead RP
with Ben Steel
La benya 31/Jul/10 Lead β

7a+ in the new guide, ill take it. awesome to get the flash. awesome route from start to finish

Ceridwen 18/Jul/10 2nd dnf
with Andy
Hidden 18/Jul/10 Lead RP
MarkRyder 09/Jun/10 Lead RP
with vertigo
vertigo 09/Jun/10 Lead RP

Nice and sustained all the way to the rest in the groove. Didn't see any evidence of hold loss, certainly nothing crucial. Solid 7a.

Hidden 06/Jun/10 Lead β
feilx 05/Jun/10 Lead rpt
with Rich Dagner
Hidden 04/Jun/10 Lead RP
Ed Babs 23/Apr/10 Lead RP

Repeated 17 Sep 16 with Jane Weir

with trev_f
Alex More 14/Apr/10 TR dog
with Ed babs
feilx ??/2010 Lead dog
with jon biddle
Hidden ??/2010 Lead RP
eddy-on-the-rocks 07/Nov/09 Lead rpt

Copped a down pour whilst on the pocket jug.

with Geoff
w.pettet-smith 08/Aug/09 Lead dog

very nice- quite intricate in the upper groove, felt a bit worried on the 2nd or 3rd bolt.two redpoints then it got dark. send it next time.

with josh and steve
derico 08/Jun/09 Lead β

Good climb, would be hard to spot the crucial crimp at crux if not chalked though!

Glyn 07/Jun/09 Lead RP
with derico
Jonny_86 07/Jun/09 Lead RP
with Glyn
trev_f 05/Jun/09 Lead RP
with Tash
Ed Booth 05/Jun/09 Lead RP

Second go. First go got fingers stuck in mono and tried to slap to the jug but fell off as i didnt hit it. gutted as its a big jug! Sent second go after rest.

with Andy Long
Jus 10/May/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/May/09 Lead dnf
Hidden 09/May/09 Lead dog
Alex More ??/2009 TR dog
with bob
nealh ??/2009 Lead
schof 01/Aug/08 Lead RP
with martin slovak
Martin Krasnansky 01/Aug/08 Lead O/S
feilx 11/May/08 Lead O/S
JPGR 10/May/08 Lead
with Steve
Richard Horn 07/Jul/07 Lead RP
Hidden ??/2007 -
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
bigie bob 15/Oct/06 Lead O/S
lx 20/Sep/06 Lead


with rob
Hidden 14/May/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/May/06 Lead RP
Hidden ?/May/06 Lead O/S
steve taylor ??/2006 Lead
Boy ??/2006 -
feeko ??/2006 -
Marti999 ??/2006 Lead
sollyf ??/2006 -
eddieclimb 11/Aug/05 Lead RP
with Dan Savory, Jason Parker
Kev Little ??/2004 Lead RP
Mark Kemball 15/Sep/02 Lead
with Nic Dill
goi.ashmore 08/May/02 Lead RP
with Duncan Powell
John Southworth ??/2001 -
Hidden ??/2000 Lead
Hidden ??/2000 -
Ben Thorne ??/2000 Lead dog

Tried it several times, couldn't put it together in one. Almost a decade ago, so might try again!

with JIMBO, John Pullin
buzby78 19/Aug/96 Lead O/S
Mike Owen 01/Jun/95 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
UKB and BMC Shark ??/1995 Lead O/S
with John Codling
Hidden ?/Aug/93 Lead RP
Hidden ??/1993 Lead O/S
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High 6c+
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Votes cast 59
Votes cast 58
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set