Rockfax Description
A once great route that was well worth a look if The Strand and Park Lane/Doomsville were occupied. Sadly the route is usually now covered in lichen and the bottom section is loose and dusty. The main attraction is the wide crack in the upper right-hand side of the buttress. Start in a small niche to the left of the narrow path.
1) 5a, 30m. Climb the slabby wall on the left leading to the base of a shallow groove. Climb this to a ledge on the left and move up right to reach a left-trending line. Follow this and then head up the steep groove that leads to a wall. Climb the wall to a peg below an overhanging niche. Exciting moves right below the niche lead to a belay in the base of the wide crack.
1a) E1 5a, 25m. Use P1 of Street Survivor to reach the crack.
2) 5a, 30m. Climb the crack with a few interesting moves near the top, to a ledge in a niche. Belay here or scramble up and right to reach easy ground taking care not to dislodge loose rock onto your second. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Two superbly very varied pitches. HVS 4c. 1st pitch-slabby and fairly bold lead with some suspect protection. HVS 5a. 2nd pitch-wonderful, steep, well protected jamming crack.
Ticklists
North Wales Rock Graded List , North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| tim jepson | 12 Jul |
Show βeta
βeta: This route is best done in one, two or three pitches, starting up Central Park, moving right into the crack of Street Survivor, then carrying on up the crack of Central Park. That way avoids loose rock, is well-protected and gives excellent climbing. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: This route is best done in one, two or three pitches, starting up Central Park, moving right into the crack of Street Survivor, then carrying on up the crack of Central Park. That way avoids loose rock, is well-protected and gives excellent climbing. |
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| Andy Moles | 10 Jul, 2021 |
Show βeta
βeta: Possible to climb in a single pitch via the cleaned lower pitch of Street Survivor. Felt possibly E1 overall like this. | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Possible to climb in a single pitch via the cleaned lower pitch of Street Survivor. Felt possibly E1 overall like this. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff
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Britomartis
Grade: HVS 4c ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)