A fantastic route, that in reality is barely 25m high, but the winding path up and then down into the depths of the deep dark cave make this route a long and adventurous undertaking. To reach the start of the route, you need to abseil down to the ledge by the blowhole. Then swing out right to the seaward edge of the buttress and continue abseiling down to a belay at the base of the arete. This all feels a bit insecure.
1) 4a, 15m. Move up and left on good holds to gain a ledge that overlooks the belly of the deep sea cave, and belay at its left-hand end.
2) 5a, 20m. From the ledge, move down for a few metres to a descending line of small but positive holds, remembering to place gear to protect the unlucky second. Belay just above the sea at the base of a black groove, below a massive chockstone.
3) 5b, 20m. Climb the black groove to where the rock steepens - the rock here can be very damp. Somehow traverse right towards the light, passing a peg and be grateful that it is too dark to see how rotten it is. Steep moves on big holds lead out onto the chockstone. Pull up onto its top and belay.
4) 4b, 30m. Ascend the right-hand wall back up towards the top of the abseil point. © Rockfax
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