UKC

82m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A fantastic route, that in reality is barely 25m high, but the winding path up and then down into the depths of the deep dark cave make this route a long and adventurous undertaking. It can remain very damp in all but drought conditions. To reach the start, abseil to the ledge beside the blowhole then swing out right to the edge of the buttress and continue abseiling down to a belay at the base of the arete. This all feels a bit insecure.
1) 4a, 12m. Move up and left on good holds to gain a ledge that overlooks the belly of the deep sea cave, and belay at its left-hand end.
2) 5a, 20m. From the ledge, move down for a few metres to a descending line of small but positive holds, remembering to place gear to protect the unlucky second. Belay just above the sea at the base of a black groove, below a massive chockstone.
3) 5c, 20m. Climb the black groove to where the rock steepens - the rock here can be very damp. Somehow traverse right towards the light, passing the rusty remains of a peg. Steep moves on big holds lead out onto the chockstone. Pull up onto its top and belay.
4) 4b, 30m. Ascend the right-hand wall back up towards the top of the abseil point. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List , ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales , Ultimate E2 ticklist , The Road to Shibboleth , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Best Mid Grade Sea Cliff Traverses , UK Holiday Plans , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , The Gogarth Rock Cat's Apprenticeship. , Hard Rock & Other Classics , Hilariously ‘Adventurous’ Routes

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User Date Notes
Tuftynick 21 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Ground up guide and UKC don't mention bird ban but there are BMC bird ban notices in the area mentioning these routes. Hopefully this saves some confusion.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Ground up guide and UKC don't mention bird ban but there are BMC bird ban notices in the area mentioning these routes. Hopefully this saves some confusion.

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Guidebooks for Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff

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High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 18
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 18
Votes cast 17
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
T.Rex

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)

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