Rockfax Description
A tough route, and one that is steeped in traditional climbing. Start below the horrific-looking overhanging chimney groove.
1) 5b, 30m. Move up into the chimney until you are forced to back-and-foot to where the chimney closes. Escape into a crack on the right wall, and follow this up to a groove. When you are level with the top of the chimney/crack, make a wild move down and left to a hidden jug. Step across onto the steep slab on the left, and pull into the groove that is the continuation of the chimney. Move up this for a few metres and then traverse across the slab to below a smaller groove and ascend this to a small stance. A long pitch that eats as much gear as you can throw at it.
2) 4c, 15m. Follow the easier groove to the grassy ledge.
3) 20m. Traverse right across the grassy ledge to a spike often slung with a rope.
4) 35m. As for Nightride P4. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
THe wide overhanging chimney left of Scavenger.

Peter Crew and Jancis Baldock 1966.


George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist


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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 11
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 8
Votes cast 8
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set
Route of Interest

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)

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