UKC

55m.

Rockfax Description
A tough route, and one that is steeped in traditional climbing. Start below the horrific-looking overhanging chimney groove.
1) 5b, 30m. Move up into the chimney until you are forced to back-and-foot to where the chimney closes. Escape into a crack on the right wall, and follow this up to a groove. When you are level with the top of the chimney/crack, make a wild move down and left to a hidden jug. Step across onto the steep slab on the left, and pull into the groove that is the continuation of the chimney. Move up this for a few metres and then traverse across the slab to below a smaller groove and ascend this to a small stance. A long pitch that eats as much gear as you can throw at it.
2) 4c, 15m. Follow the easier groove to the grassy ledge.
3) 20m. Traverse right across the grassy ledge to a spike often slung with a rope.
4) 35m. As for Nightride P4. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
THe wide overhanging chimney left of Scavenger.

Peter Crew and Jancis Baldock 1966.

Ticklists

George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist

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High E2
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High E1
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High HVS
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Votes cast 11
High 5c
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High 5b
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High 5a
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Votes cast 8
Votes cast 8
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Followed
Lead
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Emulator

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)

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