A great route and one of the more popular lines in the Easter Island Gully area. Start below a groove, just where the rock becomes steep, blank and much harder to traverse.
1) 5b, 15m. Head up into the corner above until some quartz holds lead rightwards around the arete. Strenuous moves up a small groove lead to a small ledge and belay on the right.
2) 5b, 35m. Climb the groove above the belay, until it turns into a crack. Follow the steep crack via some sustained climbing to belay in a niche just below the top and some short cracks.
3) 30m. Climb up the cracks to a belay. Then scramble over the grassy slopes to reach the racking-up spot. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A contender for the best E1 at Gogarth
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