Rockfax Description
A great route and one of the more popular lines in the Easter Island Gully area. Start below a groove, just where the rock becomes steep, blank and much harder to traverse.
1) 5b, 15m. Head up into the corner above until some quartz holds lead rightwards around the arete. Strenuous moves up a small groove lead to a small ledge and belay on the right.
2) 5b, 35m. Climb the groove above the belay, until it turns into a crack. Follow the steep crack via some sustained climbing to belay in a niche just below the top and some short cracks.
3) 30m. Climb up the cracks to a belay. Then scramble over the grassy slopes to reach the racking-up spot. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A contender for the best E1 at Gogarth


North Wales Rock Graded List , Ultimate E1 ticklist , Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist , Tom Ripley's Top 5 E1 Climbs , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs , UK Holiday Plans , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , The Gogarth Rock Cat's Apprenticeship. , Gogarth life list , Wales Trip - 2022 , North Wales To Do List , E1's


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Guidebooks for Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff

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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 34
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 34
Votes cast 31
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest
True Moments/Freebird

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Gogarth South Stack)

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