Rockfax Description
Less popular than it deserves - the climbing is sustained and bold in places. Start to the left of Scavenger near the base of the arete.
1) 4c, 12m. From the arete, follow the line of least resistance up to the left-hand end of the long ledge, and move to its right-hand end and belay below the corner of Scavenger.
2) 5b, 20m. A stunning pitch. Move up the corner for 3m to a traverse line on the left wall, and follow this to the arete. Move round the arete to a flake, get stood on top of this before committing moves gain a sloping ledge back on the arete (gear down and right here). Make amazing moves up on pockets to a downwards-pointing fang of rock in a wide crack, and continue to a small ledge and spike belay on the left - all rather wild and exposed.
3) 4b, 30m. Climb the groove and then follow much easier but slightly more-friable ground to the large spike with a rope sling around it passed on the abseil approach.
4) 40m. Scramble up right to gain a ledge where Scavenger belays. Move easily left into a gully and make your way to the top taking care of the loose blocks. © Rockfax


North Wales Rock Graded List , The Road to Shibboleth , 2019 all-rounder Psyche list , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , The Gogarth Rock Cat's Apprenticeship.


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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 36
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 36
Votes cast 32
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set
Route of Interest
North West Passage

Grade: E1 5b ***
(Gogarth South Stack)

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