UKC

40m.

The initial flake of T.Rex collapsed in an extinction event in 2018. Part of its fossil forms a ramp leading to a steep groove and grubby wall beneath a large roof. The newly hatched roof and wall provide little to accommodate a means of access to the surviving corner of T.Rex. Instead, we took a line with a little new climbing that connects the start of Hardback Thesaurus to the remains of T.Rex. Paperback Relic E6 6b **T.Rex. A good, stiff, ground-up proposition. About 7a+ climbing but with spaced and hard-earned gear. Follow Hardback Thesaurus through its difficult start to a large resting pocket at ~8m. Arrange good gear and traverse left on thin flake pockets and edges to access some deeper pockets above (decent wire). Move up (passing good wires) to reach a large undercut “tooth” forming a thin right-facing groove. Climb up this (and some holds on the face of the “tooth”) to gain a good undercut at the top of the groove. Use this to move leftward and continue, thinly, into the remaining corner of T.Rex.T.Rex. Finish up T.Rex or (for added interest) Metal Guru (50m). Headpointed on FA.28-May-2019, Tony Stone, and Ben Heason.

Tony Stone, and Ben Heason 28/May/2019.

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Guidebooks for Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff

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High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Route of Interest
Death Trap Direct

Grade: E6 5c ***
(Gogarth South Stack)

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