UKC

Rockfax Description
A great route with a burly and traditional first pitch. Start beneath the wide crack just left of the arete.
1) 5a, 20m. Climb the crack, which is strenuous but requires very little jamming, to a move right onto a ledge.
2) 5b, 25m. Head right and into the steep groove. Climb this until you can move left and onto the arete. Finish up this to an easing just before the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List , Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist , 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs , Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , The Gogarth Rock Cat's Apprenticeship. , 3 Star - North Wales upto HVS

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User Date Notes
geoff b 18 Aug, 2024 Show βeta
βeta: P2 is described incorrectly above. From the ledge go up to the short, open groove above. (The obvious steep & continuous groove of Merchant Man P2 lies to the right.) Then boldly climb the clean wall above, to the left of the fin, on small positive holds to reach flakes & wide cracks that lead to the grassy slope. E1 5a?
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: P2 is described incorrectly above. From the ledge go up to the short, open groove above. (The obvious steep & continuous groove of Merchant Man P2 lies to the right.) Then boldly climb the clean wall above, to the left of the fin, on small positive holds to reach flakes & wide cracks that lead to the grassy slope. E1 5a?

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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 18
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 18
Votes cast 17
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
King Bee Crack

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Holyhead Mountain)

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