A real adventure that has some stunning climbing in wild situations. Start 15m to the right of the large corner/chimney of Heroin, below an 8m crack that leads to the right-hand end of a large ledge.
1) 4c, 9m. Climb the crack to the large ledge and belay.
2) 5a, 45m. A belter of a pitch. Ascend the corner for 12m until a tricky move can be made right round the arete to a reasonable ledge on the wall. Follow this rising ledge-line right to the base of a steep cracked groove. Exciting climbing up this leads to a small but adequate stance.
3) 4a, 18m. Follow the continuation groove to a sloping ramp-line that leads left to the corner and belay here below a chimney.
4) 20m. Move left to join Nightrider P4. © Rockfax
North Wales Rock Graded List, ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales, Kit Perry's 2013 Mission Statement, Ultimate HVS ticklist, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs, Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist, UK Holiday Plans, 2019 all-rounder Psyche list, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist, North Wales HVS, Target Routes 2019/2020, May Trip Target List, The Gogarth Rock Cat's Apprenticeship.
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