Rockfax Description
An adventure that has some stunning climbing in a wild situation. Start 15m right of the large corner of Heroin, below an 8m crack that leads to the right-hand end of a large ledge.
1) 4c, 9m. Climb the crack to the large ledge and belay.
2) 5a, 45m. A belter of a pitch. Ascend the corner for 12m until a tricky move can be made right round the arete to a reasonable ledge on the wall. Follow this rising line right to the base of a steep cracked groove. Exciting climbing up this leads to a small but adequate stance.
2a) Scavenger Direct, HVS 5b, 31m. Go straight up the corner/groove to rejoin the original Scavenger small stance.
3) 4a, 18m. Follow the continuation groove to a sloping rampline that leads left to the corner and belay here below a chimney.
4) 20m. Climb the wide chimney-crack on the sidewall above. Alternatively, move left to finish up Nightrider P4. © Rockfax
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Grade: HVS 4c ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)