Rockfax Description
A thrilling trip and fantastic adventure with some awkward moves. The route is more often done aiding the second pitch, otherwise it is E5 6b.
1) 12m. From the foot of Genuflux, traverse just above sea level to below the chimney of Archway.
2) 5c, 18m. Move right around the bulge to the other side and go up a shallow groove. Move 2m right and climb the steep wall - harder than you think. Trend up and right to reach the deep cave tucked into the cliff.
3) 5b/A1 (6b), 25m. Bridge the chimney to its top - easier than you think. Extend the web of tat with a sling. Either lower off and revert to aid, or start bridging down to the lip if you aim for the coveted free ascent. Dropping out of the chimney proves scary. Swing out across the lip using all sorts of jams and bars and layback vigorously to hopefully reach a stance up and right.
4) 5a, 15m. If you have made it this far, reaching the top should be easy. Climb up the groove on the right - a little awkward - then escape left to a belay before the groove deteriorates. © Rockfax


North Wales Rock Graded List , Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck , Unusual and Interesting Routes You Must Do VS- E2 , The Gogarth Rock Cat's Apprenticeship. , Wales Trip - 2022


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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 7
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 7
Votes cast 8
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set
Route of Interest
Lost Time

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)

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