UKC

Rockfax Description
A good route, which is relatively straightforward for the grade - although it is steep, and a little bit of a pump-fest. Start below the lower end of twin diagonal cracks that streak across the cliff and round an arete.
1) 6a, 38m. Make some hard moves to gain the twin cracks, and follow them leftwards. A brief respite halfway leads to more sustained climbing. The crux comes at the end of the twin cracks just before they move up into the slabby groove. Many parties abseil off from here. Alternatively, head up the groove to belay on the top of the large flake.
2) 4c, 15m. Finish up Bloody Chimney P3. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
E3/E4 overhanging crackline, most parties ab off after the first pitch.

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List, Alex's Wales ticklist, Ultimate E3 ticklist, Ultimate E4 ticklist, Gogarth life list

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Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 48
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 59
Votes cast 49
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest

20,000 Leagues Under the Sea

Grade: E4 6a ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)
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