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Rockfax Description
An excellent combination that gives a great way across the slab combining the amazing main pitch of Concrete Chimney, with the last pitch of Dream... Start by abseiling down to belay above the first pitch of Wen, or climb Wen to this point.
1) 5b, 55m. Move up and left across the ledges to just right of the arete. Above and left is an incipient crack, gain this and follow it to a steepening, which coincides with larger holds on bubbly rock. Move through the weirdness to ledges that lead up and left to the same often-busy belay of Dream....
2) 4c, 40m. As for Dream... © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
An excellent combination that gives a great way across the slab combining the amazing main pitch of Concrete Chimney, with the last pitch of Dream... Start by abseiling down to belay above the first pitch of Wen, or climb Wen to this point.
1) 5b, 55m. Move up and left across the ledges to just right of the arete. Above and left is an incipient crack, gain this and follow it to a steepening, which coincides with larger holds on bubbly rock. Move through the weirdness to ledges that lead up and left to the same often-busy belay of Dream....
2) 4c, 40m. As for Dream...

Ticklists

The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs, UK Holiday Plans, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist, World Class Britain & Ireland, Target Routes 2019/2020, The Gogarth Rock Cat's Apprenticeship., Jonesy's leg day ticklist

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Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 13
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 13
Votes cast 12
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Not Set
Route of Interest

Lighthouse Arete Direct/Blanco

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Gogarth South Stack)