Rockfax Description
An excellent combination that gives a great way across the slab combining the amazing main pitch of Concrete Chimney with the last pitch of Dream. 1) 5a, 55m. 2) 4c, 40m. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
An excellent combination that gives a great way across the slab combining the amazing main pitch of Concrete Chimney, with the last pitch of Dream... Start by abseiling down to belay above the first pitch of Wen, or climb Wen to this point.
1) 5b, 55m. Move up and left across the ledges to just right of the arete. Above and left is an incipient crack, gain this and follow it to a steepening, which coincides with larger holds on bubbly rock. Move through the weirdness to ledges that lead up and left to the same often-busy belay of Dream....
2) 4c, 40m. As for Dream...
The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs , UK Holiday Plans , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Target Routes 2019/2020 , The Gogarth Rock Cat's Apprenticeship. , Jonesy's leg day ticklist , Hard Rock & Other Classics , Routes for MCI , 3 Star - North Wales HS - HVS
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Paul Sagar | 24 May, 2022 |
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βeta: Can confirm 50m ropes more than adequate for P1 | βeta? | |
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βeta: Can confirm 50m ropes more than adequate for P1 |
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steve prior | 4 Jun, 2021 |
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βeta: Pitch 1 45m, You dont need 60m ropes for sure. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Pitch 1 45m, You dont need 60m ropes for sure. |
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Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)