UKC

Rockfax Description
An excellent combination that gives a great way across the slab combining the amazing main pitch of Concrete Chimney with the last pitch of Dream. 1) 5b, 55m. 2) 4c, 40m. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
An excellent combination that gives a great way across the slab combining the amazing main pitch of Concrete Chimney, with the last pitch of Dream... Start by abseiling down to belay above the first pitch of Wen, or climb Wen to this point.
1) 5b, 55m. Move up and left across the ledges to just right of the arete. Above and left is an incipient crack, gain this and follow it to a steepening, which coincides with larger holds on bubbly rock. Move through the weirdness to ledges that lead up and left to the same often-busy belay of Dream....
2) 4c, 40m. As for Dream...

Ticklists

The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , 100 Best Wales Mid Grade Climbs , UK Holiday Plans , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , World Class Britain & Ireland , Target Routes 2019/2020 , The Gogarth Rock Cat's Apprenticeship. , Jonesy's leg day ticklist , Hard Rock & Other Classics

Feedback

User Date Notes
Paul Sagar 24 May, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Can confirm 50m ropes more than adequate for P1
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Can confirm 50m ropes more than adequate for P1
steve prior 4 Jun, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Pitch 1 45m, You dont need 60m ropes for sure.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Pitch 1 45m, You dont need 60m ropes for sure.

Logged Ascents

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Guidebooks for Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 17
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 17
Votes cast 16
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set
Route of Interest
King Bee Crack

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Holyhead Mountain)

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