UKC

Restricted Access

Seals breed in Parliament House cave during the autumn months and climbers should take particular care not to disturb them during the time from late August to late October when the young seal pups can be eailsiy sepreated from their mothers with devastating consequences.

A large (huge!) rockfall occured at the back of Parliement House Cave in 2017 which affects some of the routes in the cave and further rockfalls are likley! 

2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A tough route that is sustained and hard to read with only just enough gear on the first pitch. Start in a shallow groove, just down and left of a large yellow scar.
1) 5a, 40m. Ascend the groove and move over the bulge with a sense of urgency to eventually reach better holds above with relief. Continue up the groove using the steeper wall on the right to reach a small ledge. Step left, following the groove, before moving right into another groove which leads up to a stance.
2) 4b, 20m. Step left and back into the groove-line and finish up the steep corner-crack to a ledge. Either belay here or carry on up the grass and rock slope. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A Tricky start leads to lovely steep corner climbing.

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List , Ingle Routes , Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , The Gogarth Rock Cat's Apprenticeship.

Feedback

User Date Notes
Graeme Hammond 17 May, 2023 Show βeta
βeta: Around 40m links both pitches to abseil tat round a block where the scrambling up grass begins. Unless you like walking best to finish here. Tat OK but seen better days.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Around 40m links both pitches to abseil tat round a block where the scrambling up grass begins. Unless you like walking best to finish here. Tat OK but seen better days.
Andy Moles 10 Jul, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Pitch lengths are way out, route is only 40m total. Upper corner is the best part so it's a bit strange to abseil before this.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Pitch lengths are way out, route is only 40m total. Upper corner is the best part so it's a bit strange to abseil before this.
Frank the Husky 20 May, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: It is possible (and better) to do in one long pitch, and then abseil off the good boss at the top of the second pitch before the choss of the upper slopes. It's essential for the belayer to attach themselves at the bottom, as there was a double fatality on this route due to this not being done and the leader falling early on.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: It is possible (and better) to do in one long pitch, and then abseil off the good boss at the top of the second pitch before the choss of the upper slopes. It's essential for the belayer to attach themselves at the bottom, as there was a double fatality on this route due to this not being done and the leader falling early on.

Logged Ascents

485 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 33 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 82
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 79
Votes cast 72
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest
Scavenger

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)

Loading Notifications...