Rockfax Description
A tough route that is sustained and hard to read with only just enough gear on the first pitch. Start in a shallow groove, just down and left of a large yellow scar.
1) 5a, 40m. Ascend the groove and move over the bulge with a sense of urgency to eventually reach better holds above with relief. Continue up the groove using the steeper wall on the right to reach a small ledge. Step left, following the groove, before moving right into another groove which leads up to a stance.
2) 4b, 20m. Step left and back into the groove-line and finish up the steep corner-crack to a ledge. Either belay here or carry on up the grass and rock slope. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A Tricky start leads to lovely steep corner climbing.
North Wales Rock Graded List , Ingle Routes , Glyn's North Wales mid-grade ticklist , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , The Gogarth Rock Cat's Apprenticeship.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Graeme Hammond | 17 May |
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βeta: Around 40m links both pitches to abseil tat round a block where the scrambling up grass begins. Unless you like walking best to finish here. Tat OK but seen better days. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Around 40m links both pitches to abseil tat round a block where the scrambling up grass begins. Unless you like walking best to finish here. Tat OK but seen better days. |
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Andy Moles | 10 Jul, 2021 |
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βeta: Pitch lengths are way out, route is only 40m total. Upper corner is the best part so it's a bit strange to abseil before this. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Pitch lengths are way out, route is only 40m total. Upper corner is the best part so it's a bit strange to abseil before this. |
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Frank the Husky | 20 May, 2019 |
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βeta: It is possible (and better) to do in one long pitch, and then abseil off the good boss at the top of the second pitch before the choss of the upper slopes. It's essential for the belayer to attach themselves at the bottom, as there was a double fatality on this route due to this not being done and the leader falling early on. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: It is possible (and better) to do in one long pitch, and then abseil off the good boss at the top of the second pitch before the choss of the upper slopes. It's essential for the belayer to attach themselves at the bottom, as there was a double fatality on this route due to this not being done and the leader falling early on. |
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Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Gogarth South Stack)