A great route, the most popular on the Upper Tier. The climbing is sustained and feels tough for the grade, although the gear is good. Start below and slightly to the left of the compelling crack that cuts a swathe through the lichenous carpet.
1) 5b, 45m. Climb up and to the right to reach the base of the crack. Ascend the crack which is steep and relentless. Eventually, good holds lead left to a good belay on a ledge. It is possible to abseil off the pegs, or....
2) 4b, 10m. Climb the broken slab up to easier ground and belay well back as for Park Lane/Doomsville. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Well protected throughout, this classic Welsh E2 is sustained, pumpy and satisfying. Care should be taken on the approach traverse. Follow the continuous and ever-steepening crack on the main headwall of the upper tier for nearly 50m to a broken slab and insitu knot of tat. The 4b second pitch, which mostly ascends 45deg grass, is commonly foregone for an abseil back to base.
Top of pitch 1 belay is now bomber (May 2012): 3 brand new pegs with rings to ab from. Thanks to whoever re-equipped it.
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