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2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A great route, the most popular on the Upper Tier. The climbing is sustained and feels tough for the grade, although the gear is good. Start below and slightly to the left of the compelling crack that cuts a swathe through the lichenous carpet.

1) 5b, 45m. Climb up and to the right to reach the base of the crack. Ascend the crack which is steep and relentless. Eventually, good holds lead left to a good belay on a ledge. It is possible to abseil off the pegs, or....
2) 4b, 10m. Climb the broken slab up to easier ground and belay well back as for Park Lane/Doomsville. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Well protected throughout, this classic Welsh E2 is sustained, pumpy and satisfying. Care should be taken on the approach traverse. Follow the continuous and ever-steepening crack on the main headwall of the upper tier for nearly 50m to a broken slab and insitu knot of tat. The 4b second pitch, which mostly ascends 45deg grass, is commonly foregone for an abseil back to base.

Top of pitch 1 belay is now bomber (May 2012): 3 brand new pegs with rings to ab from. Thanks to whoever re-equipped it.

Ticklists

Extreme Rock, North Wales Rock Graded List, Monopoly, ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales, MIA logbook must haves!, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, Ultimate E2 ticklist, The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, MUMC Ticklist, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Extreme 2018, BMG Application Rock (Unofficial), E is for Easy... Right?, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist, May Trip Target List, Post Quarantine Blowout, The Gogarth Rock Cat's Apprenticeship.

Feedback

User Date Notes
DannyH001 23 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Apparently Liz heard an audible pop when retrieving one of my nuts and a flake started moving that didn't before. Not sure where it was but just approach with a little caution. Either way theres good gear all over the place and it wasn't fully removable by hand so not a major issue.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Apparently Liz heard an audible pop when retrieving one of my nuts and a flake started moving that didn't before. Not sure where it was but just approach with a little caution. Either way theres good gear all over the place and it wasn't fully removable by hand so not a major issue.

Logged Ascents

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Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Redpoint
Not Set
Route of Interest

Creeping Lemma

Grade: E2 5c ***
(Gogarth South Stack)