Rockfax Description
A great route, the most popular on the Upper Tier. The climbing is sustained although the gear is good. Start below and slightly to the left of the compelling crack that cuts a swathe through the lichenous carpet. Climb up and to the right to reach the base of the crack. Ascend the crack which is steep and relentless. Eventually, good holds lead left to a good fixed belay on a ledge. Abseil off.
FA .E.Drummond (1pt) 1.10.1967 © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Well protected throughout, this classic Welsh E2 is sustained, pumpy and satisfying. Care should be taken on the approach traverse. Follow the continuous and ever-steepening crack on the main headwall of the upper tier for nearly 50m to a broken slab and insitu knot of tat. The 4b second pitch, which mostly ascends 45deg grass, is commonly foregone for an abseil back to base.

Top of pitch 1 belay is now bomber (May 2012): 3 brand new pegs with rings to ab from. Thanks to whoever re-equipped it.

Ticklists

Extreme Rock , North Wales Rock Graded List , Monopoly , ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales , MIA logbook must haves! , North Wales 100 Classic Climbs , ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs , Ultimate E2 ticklist , The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist , Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist , MUMC Ticklist , The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet) , Chris H's 100 Mega Classic Trad , Extreme 2018 , BMG Application Rock (Unofficial) , E is for Easy... Right? , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , May Trip Target List , Post Quarantine Blowout , The Gogarth Rock Cat's Apprenticeship. , Hard Rock & Other Classics , 2021 Ticklist , Welsh climbs to last a lifetime , Big Pitches , Wales Trip - 2022 , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3 , North Wales To Do List

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