UKC Logbook - 'The Trap'

40m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The chimney on the front face of the buttress is as attractive to some as it is repulsive to others. Start from the square-cut ledges reached by abseil.
1) 4c, 25m. Get in the chimney and climb diagonally outwards to the overhang and up the narrow section above. This tight section will be the downfall of the cake eater. Move left where it thankfully widens to a large ledge and belay.
2) 4a, 15m. Continue up the shattered groove on the right and up the final wide chimney. © Rockfax

Ticklists

HVS Adventures , Enigmatic Affection: The Dark Art of Chimneying

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User	Date		Notes
LucaC	17 May, 2023	Show βeta βeta: Who knows what’s going on with the rockfax grade and route description here here! P1 E1 5b: Back and foot up the chimney with limited gear on the right hand wall until it’s possible to bridge and then move left onto a ledge. Climb up the left wall and then bridge again until you can move into the wide crack (Camelot #4 then #5). Wriggle up the crack for a few meters with some arm bars. Make a hard move onto the right wall to eventually get some jugs and the belay ledge on the right. P2 VS 5a: Climb the wide crack above the belay block (Camelot #4 and #5) and then the easier continuation crack to the top.
Show beta βeta: Who knows what’s going on with the rockfax grade and route description here here! P1 E1 5b: Back and foot up the chimney with limited gear on the right hand wall until it’s possible to bridge and then move left onto a ledge. Climb up the left wall and then bridge again until you can move into the wide crack (Camelot #4 then #5). Wriggle up the crack for a few meters with some arm bars. Make a hard move onto the right wall to eventually get some jugs and the belay ledge on the right. P2 VS 5a: Climb the wide crack above the belay block (Camelot #4 and #5) and then the easier continuation crack to the top.