A stunning climb for the grade. Its needs a long dry spell for the initial crack to not be damp. A late-afternoon ascent will often allow the sun to help with this. Start below a large flake/chimney, where you will undoubtedly start to feel the terror associated with this route, especially if you don't have any very large cams (size 5s are handy).
1) 5c, 45m. Thrutch up the start of the chimney until you are forced into a rather alarming layback sequence, from here it is a race against time to get established above the wide and committing crack. Bridge up the groove above with much relief until you are level with a line of jugs. Swing rightwards on these (easy but little in the way of gear) to a belay on the slab.
2) 5b, 35m. Move up and right from the belay, and try and find the easiest way through the bulge onto the slab above - this involves a bold sequence that requires a steady head. Move up and left across the slab to a small ledge near its apex, below the overhang. Move down and left and make an exciting, but ultimately easy step across a groove. Move up and left to a good belay in the corner.
3) 4c, 40m. Move up to join the last pitch of Dream... and follow this left to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
July 2018: The flake at the start of the route has collapsed. Not sure if the route has been climbed since or what new grade is.
Extreme Rock , North Wales Rock Graded List , Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck , Wide Cracks , The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist , Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist , Thrutch and Clutch , Ultimate E3 ticklist , UK road to wide crack mastery , Caelan visits , BMG Application Rock (Unofficial)
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