Rockfax Description
A direct line with intricate climbing leading to an exposed finale. Sustained but never desperate with lots of fiddly gear and helpful hidden holds. Start at the base of the alcove.
1) 5a, 25m. From the alcove, climb onto the blunt-topped pinnacle. Continue above until beneath the corner. Traverse left round the arete, move up and continue on good holds to a belay.
2) 5b, 45m. Climb a thin crack behind the belay for 10m. A tricky sequence right leads to Dream... and an old peg. Continue upwards, first left, and then back right, to a small roof. Pull over this at its widest point. A wide crack leads to a small stance.
3) 4b, 18m. Step right and climb the vague crack that fizzles out beneath the final wall. Plug in an extra runner and continue to the top on huge holds; jug pulling in the sky! © Rockfax
Gogarth Extreme Gems , George's Ultimate Easy to Mid-Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist , Dunc's ticklist
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Adam Booth | 18 May, 2023 |
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βeta: Beware loose blocks on the top pitch right above the belay! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Beware loose blocks on the top pitch right above the belay! |
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Guy Harris | 10 Aug, 2020 |
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βeta: Lovely climbing | βeta? | |
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βeta: Lovely climbing |
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Grade: E2 5b ***
(Gogarth North Stack and Main Cliff)