This infamous "chop" route takes 3 independent and serious pitches up the wall. The intimidating and very serious first pitch appears to be the hardest.
1. 17m 6b. Start just down the rake from Heart of Gold underneath a seeping roof. Traverse horizontally rightwards a little way under the roof to a birdy shelf. Clip the crap peg above and then pull through the roof to gain a groove. Climb the groove trending rightwards to the Heart of Gold belay.
2. 15m 6a. Follow a scimitar shaped thin seam up and rightwards with increasing difficulty to the original belay of The Enchanted Broccoli Garden.
3. 40m 6a. "The Astro-Turf pitch". Move leftwards from the belay to good kit in a shallow groove. Exit this slightly rightwards then climb straight up the golden wall on pockets to enter a large scoop from the right. Exit this leftwards and continue up rubble to the top.
p1 Paul Pritchard belayed by Paul Barbier, 16 Oct 1986
p2 Paul Pritchard belayed by Gwion Hughes, 8 Jan 1987
p3 Paul Pritchard and Bobby Drury, 29 Jan 1987
Second ascent by Mike Twid Turner and partner, 1990s. The entire route was climbed in one push from the ground after work, finishing in the dark with help from the lighthouse.

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