The right-hand side of the leaning buttress above the first waterfall is home to one of Gordale's finest adventures. 1) 6b, 22m. Start just left of the arete and pull up and right around it. Climb via a crack to the overlap and a bolt above it. Pull over and continue up the wall to the break and move right to a cave - possible belay, but it is poor. Pull out of the cave (peg) and move up to a bolt. Climb the flake above to a break with difficulty, then the corner above to a belay. 2) 5c, 12m. Move up onto the ledge on the right before moving left to a crack. Finish up the crack. © Rockfax
FA. Pete Livesey, John Sheard (1pt) 1973. FFA. Dougie Hall 1982.
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