A bold expedition moving left out onto the walls of Face Route after a tottery first pitch. 1) 5b, 18m. Start at the arete on the right-hand side of the face and climb to an old peg. Continue up the pillar on poor rock to a belay on bolts and a stance between the two caves. 2) 5c, 12m. Move out left and up to a corner. Go left again to a small ramp and gear. Follow the ramp to the belay on Face Route. 3) 6a, 12m. Move left and up to the overhang above as for Face Route. Now traverse horizontally left for 5m - bold - before heading up to the break and a belay. 4) 5a, 8m. The groove above. © Rockfax
FA. Pete Livesey, John Sheard 1971.
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