This ascent offers a much wilder experience, far from the traditional routes, on one of Italy's most isolated and least frequented alpine faces.
Starting from Valnontey (Cogne), follow the valley floor along a well-marked path to the end of the valley, following signs for the Pol and Gerard-Grappein huts. From here, cross a rocky area and the river. Continue up the moraine leading to the base of the rocky spur where the huts are located.
There is a ladder, followed by exposed ledges, some are equipped with chains. A helmet is recommended on this exposed section. The approach takes 4 to 6 hours from Valnontey.
Pol hut: 4 places
Gerard-Grappein hut: 8 places
Water is not guaranteed at the huts, so bring a stove to melt snow.
Start early to climb the face before it heats up (the face gets sun at first light).
Begin by ascending the glacier, aiming for Punta Ceresole, and keep left to avoid the seracs and crevasses. Once under the Ceresole, move right, heading for the visible face.
Start up the face on the left side (up to 50°), then move further left to avoid the overhanging cornices along the ridge. The exit is on gentler slopes, but the snow quality deteriorates due to the eastern exposure.
Once on the ridge, continue on easy snow and rock to the true summit. To descend the col that separates the Madonnina from the true summit, you can either rappel 4 meters or do the easy downclimb on the east side.
Descend by the normal route down to Pont in Valsavarenche
Starting from Valnontey (Cogne), follow the valley floor along a well-marked path to the end of the valley, following signs for the Pol and Gerard-Grappein huts. From here, cross a rocky area and the river. Continue up the moraine leading to the base of the rocky spur where the huts are located.
There is a ladder, followed by exposed ledges, some are equipped with chains. A helmet is recommended on this exposed section. The approach takes 4 to 6 hours from Valnontey.
Pol hut: 4 places
Gerard-Grappein hut: 8 places
Water is not guaranteed at the huts, so bring a stove to melt snow.
Start early to climb the face before it heats up (the face gets sun at first light).
Begin by ascending the glacier, aiming for Punta Ceresole, and keep left to avoid the seracs and crevasses. Once under the Ceresole, move right, heading for the visible face.
Start up the face on the left side (up to 50°), then move further left to avoid the overhanging cornices along the ridge. The exit is on gentler slopes, but the snow quality deteriorates due to the eastern exposure.
Once on the ridge, continue on easy snow and rock to the true summit. To descend the col that separates the Madonnina from the true summit, you can either rappel 4 meters or do the easy downclimb on the east side.
Descend by the normal route down to Pont in Valsavarenche
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